Is there any long term solution to the problem of sealing between a bath and the tile surround. It seems that every couple of years the last magic answer fails and I have to strip it all out and start again, I seem to have tried most varieties of sealant but none last long term. Has anyone found the answer? What is the current favourite type? My ideal bathroom would be tanked with scuppers in a tiled floor as they appear to do in Spain
If yours is an acrylic bath then acrylic baths move and so the sealant fails. I fitted a Teleseal and that has fixed the problem.
+1 for Teleseal, fitted about 4 years ago still appears to be fine.
A little difficult to retro-fit though, I guess ;)
the tile surround.
strip it all out and start again,
appear to do in Spain
Perhaps you have too much movement for the size of bead of sealant?
A wider bead, and the opld trick of filling the bath with water prior to sealing may help.
or my trick, of glueing slabs of MDF to the bath sides and strips of lumber under the rim, with car body filler, to stiffen it.
the tile surround.
strip it all out and start again,
appear to do in Spain
I don't think there's any sealant type that can cope with the movement. A silicone bead's abilty to cope with movement is quite small. Plastic strip with a rubbery edge works much better.
NT
and the tile surround.
e to strip it all out and start again,
appear to do in Spain
Another trick you can do is to put additional support under the bath. (Bricks,bits of wood.)
I have been told that if you have a very thick silicon bead, rather than stretch it peels off the bath. A thinner bead will stretch better.
Maybe someone can make one huge mould of a bathroom in its entirity, and just attach it on the back of a house.
Brian
Yes, I've seen complete bathroom packages, (i.e.) the completer room, walls, floor, ceiling, the etire gubbins just wire it up and plumb it in, stacked on a site awaiting installation into a new apartment block
I want one
Yup, no harm in stiffening up the bath. You can do both.
(I like to chop out the wall a bit so that the bath sits in a slot - makes it more rigid, and also less likely to end up with a water trap where the toll edge meets the wall).
the tile surround.
strip it all out and start again,
appear to do in Spain
It depends on what you mean by thickness. It helps if you have enough thickness in the key for the bead in the first place. i.e. if tiling down to a bath, leave a least a tile thickness gap. Then you can inject silicone right into the crack and it will perform much better than just a small cosmetic bead stuck in the corner without any real key.
Silicone can usually only reliably cope with movement around 10 to 15% of its total thickness. So if you have a 10mm thick bead, that only allows it to stretch to 11mm before you will see adhesion failure. It also performs better in compression, hence why the water filling trick can result in it being under compression when the bath is empty, and relaxed when full (in preference to relaxed when empty, and stretched when full).
Using a low modulus silicone can help if there is more movement than you would like.
When shaping the bead try to avoid feathering it too thinly at the edge, else this will usually result in the edge getting lifted when it is cleaned.
Contact the Ibis hotel chain. All their ensuite room bathrooms are of that sort. Nasty creaky plastic things...
Washing in fungus? That'll never catch on! ;)
Some firms already supply modular bathrooms for use in the construction of Hotels of the Premier Inn , Travelodge type. Cruise ship cabins are usually assembled elsewhere as well and craned into the hull as it is constructed.
G.Harman
Already done for adding ground floor bathrooms to disabled people's houses, eg:
Owain
My favorite bath room's floor will be made with the glass stuff and the walls will be made crystals work.Just imagine that you are standing on a glass made roof and below that you can get a view of world's precious and expansive fishes(so a fish tank will be under the roof)...
Just imagine and how do you find this :)
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