I have fitted a new sink that is lower than the original one so the inlet to the main waste, down pipe is too high.
The house was built about 20 years ago and I expected all the piping to be plastic but it is a galvanised metal and rings like iron. I have a strap boss that I was hoping to fit but first I have to make a
55mm hole. Is there a tool? Can it be done? How? Alex.
Yes a hole saw. "fred" gave a list of parts from BES for such a job only a few days ago. Search in this group on Google for 57mm +hole +saw +code
I only have headers going back 7 days Bill and can't find it there. If you have it can you send me a copy please. My address is:
alex(dot)shaw(at)dsl(dot)pipex(dot)com
Alex.
Thanks - found it. I can't think what kind of saw blade would touch cast iron though. It's very brittle and I would have though it would need to be ground out.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@dsl.pipex.com writes
It takes a while :-), I thought there was something wrong with mine but eventually, on a slow speed, it wore itself through. There's a pilot drill in the arbor to keep it on line. It's still good & sharp too.
Don't want to be a pain but I looked on the site you suggested at
Alex.
I have a similar problem, although I have to couple a copper pipe from a Saniflow to the cast iron pipe and cannot get a strap around the pipe...
So, does anyone know how you would go about coupling a 22mm (or possibly
32mm if my route is > 12m - touch and go) copper waste pipe from a Saniflow to an old cast iron soil stack. As it stands I would have to drill a suitable hole in the stack, then couple it some how. This is the bit I'm unsure about.The only complication is that I only have access to one 'side' of the stack. There has been an extension on the house and the soil pipe now runs down partially behind the wall of the extension:
house _____________ house wall ______|O
In article , Flat Eric writes
Yes, I did see your earlier post, but I'm afraid I didn't have much in the way of positive comment and so left you to it.
I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good the render/brickwork after the even.
Two other points, you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe just before joining the stack so maybe that means working from inside the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to the stack. Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in waste pipe of the appropriate size and if you need to make a copper to waste pipe joint, do it near the start & away from the already difficult brickwork & boss muddle.
Hope that helps, but there may be better solutions, if I was to see the problem & perhaps take a step back I might end up with a different slant and a better one.
Regards,
Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have a few more questions in response
OK I'll have to have a good look to see whether this is feasible in the space I have to work with - it's very tight.
Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the stack exactly?
This could be interesting - I have a fitted kitchen on the other side of the wall! The soil stack may just coincide with the Dishwasher bay though.
I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may have come across the same problem
- joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack
Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste?
In article , Flat Eric writes
You're welcome, but I am winging it here, I have no experience of saniflo at all, hence my initial reluctance to respond.
My thoughts were that if it is going to block then it will do so at the 90deg bend and had also assumed that you would be taking it straight through the wall just before you bent it into the stack. That would make for a join near impossible to dismantle and assess for blockage. Best to make potential problem areas accessible for service.
On reflection, this is probably a bit daft as it would blow any chance of serviceability.
Again not my area, but 22mm does seem very small, is this just a shower type or a toilet? Also, I would have thought that plastic would have a smoother interface at the joints, less risk of burrs/blockage aaaaand serviceability again, a few non solvent joints in the plastic would let you dismantle if required.
You can get rubber reducers from 40mm to 21.5mm plastic (20mm overflow pipe) that may suit, but I certainly wouldn't trust such a joint to any kind of pressure. Perhaps if it was the joint at the stack then it would be ok, so that would be boss, solvent adaptor to 40mm then 40/21.5 rubber reducer but def don't make it concealed anywhere
Again, hope that helps . . . . some
A sounding board for ideas is a good thing atleast. May be prompt someone else to post to the thread, so we all pool knowledge/common sense - what this is all about eh?
Fair enough. May be fitting an equal tee with an acces plug for rodding between boss onto soil pipe and swept bend through wall would be advisable. Avoiding 90 deg bends and allowing access
I have to agree on this, but think this reason is one of robustness. Need to do some more probing here eg talking to my local Saniflow stockist etc. It is for a toilet pump.
Since using copper for Saniflow waste does appear to be recommended [from Saniflow website "All pipework should be either copper or CPVC conforming to BS7291. Do not use flexible or push-fit pipework. " ], there must be a recomended methdo of connection to the stack...? Anyone???
d'you reckon? IMHO, not sure there'd be much in it myself...
Personally dont like the idea of having any push-fit joins for a Saniflow - certainly not inside the house anyway. May be a good argument for solvent plastic is than you *can* fit occasional equal tee and access plugs along the route to allow for rodding as I have commented above. I suppose you could do the same with a compression fitting/speedfit stop end on copper
Quite! 10 bar I think the motor runs at!
Could insert such an adapter fitting after the swept solvent bend, down to copper, with the copper running at 45 deg though the wall and just emerging to make the adapter ie potentially dodgy connection
*outside*. [There must be a better way of doing this....?]Yes thanks very much - has got me thinking at the very least!
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