Insulating the garage

well, its getting colder. Its getting darker too, so im mindful of the approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage /workshop. the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to insulate with rock wool type insulation. i have just priced up celotex and its £25 per 2sqm board! Even tri iso super 9 is £100 per 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either. There has got to be a more cost effective solution to insulating the garage. i will probably use a hot air and radiant heat source.

any suggestions?

steve

Reply to
r.p.mcmurphy
Loading thread data ...

Jablite or similar.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Under 100GBP for 4 boards (40mm) from Sheffield Insulation. Each board is 2400 x 1800 mm IIRC.

Reply to
John Cartmell

Rockwool held up with chicken wire and covered with foil-backed=20 plasterboard?

Reply to
Rob Morley

============== Polystyrene (50mm thick) is quite cheap and effective. I used it underfloor.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

I went through this issue a couple of years ago. My 30m^2 garage was single brick wall with concrete floor and a pitched, felted tiled roof with access open from inside all the way up. There were up/over doors at the front (timber and ply construction with poor sealing around the edges).

I did the calculations for heat loss and to get the inside temperature up to a reasonable 18 degrees when it's around zero outside was in excess of 12kW. With electric heating, the implication would be a 50A supply and at 6p/kWh, a cost of 72p/hr to heat it. In practice, I could run two fan heaters and achieve about 10-12 degrees eventually but in a 3-4hour work session it really was hardly worth running the heating; plus for the 50A supply it would mean only

25A left for machinery which wasn't enough.

Therefore I did the calculations for using 50mm Celotex for the roof, walls and doors and nothing for the floor. This basically brought the heatloss down to about 3-4kW for 20 degrees inside and 0 outside.

I insulated against the rafters using Celotex attached with long drywall screws and flat washers, then joints taped with foil tape. I added soffit vents to allow ventilation behind the sheets.

For the walls I made a stud frame with a 25mm space behind for ventilation, infilled with Celotex and with 18mm ply over the top.

I improved sealing on the doors with special vinyl strips and again Celotex attached to the insides of the doors. It's light in weight.

FOr heating, I added a stainless steel plate heat echanger to the house CH system and added a secondary heating circuit for the garage so that the heat source is from gas rather than electricity. This results in a worst case cost of heating of about 5p per hour.

I used Celotex throughout because it provides good insulation for a given thickness and is light in weight and quick to fit. I was more concerned about space and running cost than capital cost.

To implement more cheaply, I would have kept with the Celotex for the roof and doors and used rockwool or fibreglass for the walls. I found it possible to get 50mm Celotex at £15-17 per 2440x1220 sheet by making a project including the timber and sheet materials and asking builders merchants to quote competitively for the lot.

The result is that I can use the workshop comfortably whenever I like and have adequate electrical supply for the machinery.

Reply to
Andy Hall

thanks all for the advice. if i can get celotex at that price i will do the roof with that. the walls i will probably do with thiner stuff because i cant realy lose the space. now the hunt is on for cheap celotex! if i cant get it that cheap, i will do the jablite thing.

steve

Reply to
r.p.mcmurphy

In terms of priority, I would do the doors and roof first, then move on from there.

Reply to
Andy Hall

You can get Celotex in a range of thicknesses.

Reply to
John Cartmell

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.