Insulating a shed/workshop

True :) I'm forever falling into the trap of thinking I have lots of room and therefore not being very tidy, too - then I have a clean-up every so often and it's good for a month or two until the cycle repeats.

Nope. No building regs here whatsoever, which is handy, and we're all far enough apart out here in the sticks that you can do pretty much anything and not step on anyone's toes. He does have to keep fending the county assessor off though because if she saw inside the place his property taxes would go up :-)

cheers

J.

Reply to
Jules Richardson
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My workshop will be for building and repairing computers. There will be a lot of wiring of different types (mains, data, alarm etc) so on my case fibreglass insulation would seem to be the better option.

Reply to
Count de Monet

PIR Foam will give much better insulation for a given thickness, and also does not have the same problem. Much nicer to work with as well.

Reply to
John Rumm

Spray or rigid?

Is PIR more expensive than the other two options?

Reply to
Count de Monet

Rigid, foil faced - celotext, kingspan or one of the many clones.

Its more expensive than poly - but if you can find a source of seconds etc, then not much so - perhaps 50% more. Say £12 - £14 per 8x4 2" thick sheet compared to say £8 for poly. However you only need about half to two thirds the thickness to achieve the same insulation value as poly or mineral / glass wool. So in real world cost terms its the same or better, plus you lose less space.

Reply to
John Rumm

I'm leaning towards insulated plasterboard (taped and painted) fixed directly to the batons. This will give me room for services to be installed in the normal way without fear of contact (cables ETC) with the insulating material.

I will know where fixing points are so no problem there. As the workshop will only be used to build repair & computers I only need a good bench and shelving so the likelihood of punching holes in the plasterboard are remote. I already have a small shed for storage of garden equipment ETC

I will use a length of dado trunking at the back of the bench to provide power and data services and a couple of sockets elsewhere for general use.

The electrical consumer unit will be flush and the alarm box surface mounted as will an electrical heater and ceiling lighting.

I intend to fit a second hand double glazed door and window (abundant on fleabay) as I think this will give better insulation and security (have you seen the cops trying to break down a DG door with those enforcer things)

I hope to build my workshop to look like the one shown in the photo (link below)

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Reply to
Count de Monet

Hi

Hope this information might help. 3 Years ago I built a temporary outdoor office out of OSB on a basic 2X4 frame, mounted on bricks. The outside walls, roof and under the floor had cheap 50mm white foam sheet stuck on with fast setting PVA wood glue. I later used UHU Foam friendly Contact adhesive when the weather got to cold for the PVA to set. Finally I sheeted the whole thing with Cheap Black dam proofing.

The office is still solid and dry even after being moved by a digger and I?m hoping to replace the Black Plastic with Larch lap and make it permanent.

Good luck

Chris

Reply to
chris4rodt

Accidentally perhaps, but you'll still want to hang stuff from it: tool racks, shelves, cable racks, desklight, magnifier, whiteboard, big hammer for Windows Vista.

That stuff's handy, but very expensive to buy new.

Of course, remember to double your planned socket numbers and you'll still run out. My PC rack has a server socket strip (kettle leads) on the side and a load of old monitor power cables. 18 sockets in the width of less than a single 13A.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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