installing remote electronic timer to vokera combi boiler

[Mr Conway]

Newbie here

My vokera combi boiler is in the loft of my house - don't ask me why it was the previous owners - and the control for it is on it's fron panel. Therefore in order to change any setting I need to get up there Wife is pregant and I want to give her better control of the heatin while I am in work. Therefore I want to install an electronic timer i the upstairs cupboard so she can change it as she sees fit.

I emailed Vokera and they advise that any single channel timer tha supports voltage free switching will do just nicely and I have ordere this in.

Now, I'm happy and confident in wiring it in but just need some advic on the best way to do it. I have the installation amnual for the boile also.

Have any of you done a job like this before? If so a little step b step would be appreciated

-- Mr Conway

[Paul Barker]

Most Vokeras have a wiring diagram on the plastic cover which protect the main circuit board (pcb). On that you should see a place where room thermostat should be placed, if you do not have a room thermosta at the moment there will be a short piece of wire, usually red, jumpin this connection. That is where you put the no volts connection from you Drayton receiving unit. If I remember rightly (I don't have one in stoc to refer to) it's pin 1 and 3 on the Drayton Live and Neutral not bein numbered. You take two wires from 1 and 3 to the two places on th Vokera pcb so explained above.

You wire up the Drayton receiving unit to live neutral and earth.

There is a simple sequence to get it learning to receive from you remote unit. Unplug the right and left battery draws, remove th plastic battery saver, follow the instructions for how to put th receiver into learn mode, something like press both buttons at onc until the red light flashes, insert the right battery drawer on th remote unit first then the left, receiver should get the message Fiddle with remote until a flame appears, receiver should flash re then go green, boiler should light. Change remote so flame goes out receiver flashes red then green light goes out, boiler turns off.

Obviously override timer on the boiler to permanently on

-- Paul Barker

[Ed Sirett]

Near where the power wires tothe boilr are connected there are some more terminals, including the pair in question as indicated in the boiler's installation manual. These terminals may well have a simple link currently installed. which you replace with the flex to the timer contacts. If the timer also needs mains power then you can get that from the mains supply to the boiler.

[Owain]

"Ed Sirett" wrote | Near where the power wires tothe boilr are connected there are | some more terminals, including the pair in question as indicated | in the boiler's installation manual. These terminals may well have | a simple link currently installed. which you replace with the flex

cable. Flex is what we wire table lamps with.

| to the timer contacts. If the timer also needs mains power then you | can get that from the mains supply to the boiler.

Owain

[Ed Sirett]

OK. I expect that the absolute best practice is to use a short length of flex (most boilers expect to be wired with this the grips and grommets are designed to take a round section). The flex should then go into a flex to cable connection unit and the wiring to the remote clock/thermostat done with T&E cable.

I realised that you might be thinking of unsheathed, twisted pair flex when I meant flex (is that stuff still legal?). My usage is that solid strand (usually flat) wiring is cable and multi-stranded wiring is flex. Although some older and the larger sizes of cables have multi-strand conductors. Appliances have flexes, houses have cable.