Can anyone tell me how to install the heating bricks that come seperate from the heater body. I'm not an electrician but can handle plugs and sockets and switches and such. Need a quick answer or it will be the cost of getting a sparkie in to do the job.
Did you not get instructions? And presumably you are getting someone in to connect the heaters who would do this as part of the installation.
Otherwise it's usually a case of removing the front panel and then the bricks go either side of the elements. The heaters should be fixed to the wall to stop them being pulled over, and you may need to do this before putting the bricks in place.
I once long ago put one together. You should have some instructions with the unit which explains the route for the heating wire. It is basically a matter of laying in the bricks and then installing the wire. The later needs to be stretched to just the right length to fit. Measure the route with string, then stretch wire to length of string by gripping at each end and pulling a little at a time, then checking until you have the right length.
Not done these for years but IIRC the outer case comes off often front top and sides by undoing a few self tapping screws. Bottom layer of bricks put in place with groove at the top for element. then spring looking part of element put into groove so that straight part of element is at the end. next row of bricks start from straight bit of element so that next springy bit sits in the groove on top and so on refit case and connect to switch.
What make, Dimplex or a 'copy'. I've installed more than 20 of these in the past two years and can probably help if I know the make and model. Not that they're very different anyway.
Not very much better on E7. A heat pump, with a heat resovoir run on E7 is probably very cheap in terms of running costs. Though in most cases, insulating lots will be better all round.
have you calculated it? I wouldnt expect to see many heat pumps pumping no more in than their own input power, ie 200% efficieny equivalent.
I didnt think that could be practical, as you've either got to have a huge low temp store or pump the heat up to a high temp with very poor efficiency.
yes, and maybe solar thermal warm air panels to add some input.
The E7 tarrifs seem to be around 3 times cheaper on low-rate, so it's a wash, comparing to stuff like
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of course, AC is rather noisy.
Quite a large low temp store, yes.
But, you only need to achieve a COP of 2 or so to make it very worthwhile on E7 - assuming you can recover the motor heat as well, that gets you heating for around a ninth of the price of peak electricity - around half that of gas.
This pretty much mandates UFH, with a low loop temp of course. It's handy for these sort of sums that a Kwh for an hour cools 1 ton of water by 1c (about). So for a 20C room, with a 30C minimum storage temp, and a 50C maximum, you're looking at a ton of water providing 20Kwh of heating.
In some situations this is not a problem - for example, if you can put the tankage in the underfloor void.
The E7 option for the British Gas 'Click Energy' (on-line billing) tariff has a ratio of more like 5:1. For the Eastern region it's 10.046 p/kWh for day rate and 2.091 p/kWh for night rate (+VAT). This is the cheapest night rate electricity I could find by far. It's cheaper than gas, and very much cheaper than British Gas's gas.
Indeed - I recently realised that by finding a conversion site that does E7, and entering 95% as the amount that's used at night, you can get a sorted list by E7 price for your area.
2.9p - with BG seems the best, where I am. Which is less than the (capped) price I'm paying.
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