Hi all just about to install a kitchen from B&Q and I have couple of questions to start off with
1) At what height should the worktop be?and
2) How high above the worktops for plug sockets?many thnaks in advance
Mark
A lot of people will site a worktop so that it almost sits on top of an under worktop fridge or freezer. Apparently, if you do not leave a sufficient vent gap between the top of the applicance and the worktop, the appliance can become very inefficient, burn out quickly and use a lot of electricity.
Graham
we will be having all integrated appliances so would you go for say 5-10mm above the biggest appliance.
Mark
Somewhat goverend by the height of the kitchen units. If you want it higher than this, you will need to build a stage for all the units to sit on to raise the level. Lower can be achieved by cutting down the built in plinths on the units.
Depends on how tall you are as to what is comfortable.
Usually placed approx midway between base and wall units. You can also get 45 degree angled sockets that can go flush with the base of a wall unit if you prefer.
The new IEE Electrician's Guide to the Building Regulations recommends a minimum of 150 mm to the centre-line of the sockets. Also there should be a minimum of 300 mm horizontal clearance between the edges of sockets and sinks, draining boards or hobs.
Far too small a gap for an efficient fridge. But then many fridges have a grille at the back of the worktop too. There should be an upstand around this grille, or else it's a dirt trap.
Personally I hate built-in fridges - they're just too small.
If you place the worktops so as to allow appliances to be moved in and out, then don't forget to allow space for fasteners and for appliances that need a slight tilt to get onto their rollers.
And if tiling the floor, make sure you do this first. Pal did a fitted kitchen with built in appliances and then tiled with ceramic tiles. Can't get them out now. ;-)
Does this also apply to FCUs?
Antony
The manufacturer will specify a minimum gap.
Check the instructions that come with the appliances.
Graham
A friend of mine purchased a house. The previous owners had installed a very expensive fitted kitchen.
I gather that the lady of the household asked the kitchen designers to fit lower sideboards because she was not very tall.
As a result, the kitchen designers had to go for non standard appliances.
My friend has just discovered that the dishwasher needs replacing.
The dishwasher is not a standard fit or design. Only one company in the UK stocks this particular manufacturer. The price of a replacement dishwasher - over £1,000.
Graham
which can be adjusted on the plastic legs. I'd go for a setting that allows the plinth to sit neatly with 3mm gap. That way the plinths can rest on the floor without having to be wedged in if the floor is uneven. Cutting them down is a pain. If the bottom of your socket is a fraction under 6" you can slip a tile behind it nicely.
The instructions say screw in the adjustable foot until the little dot just disappears. It worked for me.
Another Dave
The literal answer - according to the said Guide - is that the 300 mm horizontal clearance applies to all wiring accessories, but the 150 mm minimum centre height only applies to sockets. But in practice you'd usually want all the accessories at the same height, so the answer may as well be "yes."
I should stress that this is advisory, not regulatory, and the 300 mm rule could be bent a little if space is tight. Common sense should be always be applied and the object of the exercise is to place the fittings where they are convenient to operate (without having to reach over hot surfaces) and won't get splashed.
See also
Hi
Maybe a joiner could turn the builtin door and surround into an opening panel and a tabletop dishwasher could go behind it.
cheers, Pete.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.