Hi, I`ve just had a new Combi boiler fitted. (28i II Worcester). The engineer who fitted it is coming back in a few weeks to flush the system through (the boiler has had to supply a new extension too). Question:
1)There was no inhibitor added on comissioning- is this OK?
2) Should a flushing agent be used to flush the system through?
3) Should an inhibitor be used after flushing? $) if so ,the best inhibitor please.
The boilers working fine and I`m really pleased with it. Are these a good make?
The system should have at least been flushed through before fitting the boiler and a strainer fitted to the return near to it to prevent any crud getting into the heat exchanger.
After commissioning, it should have been filled with a flushing agent to mop any significant remaining crud and run hot for a few days to do so.
Then it should be drained, flushed again and inhibitor added.
For either type of chemical, I have always used either Fernox or Sentinel products and never had any problems or signs of corrosion.
PMFBI but as I fitted my own boiler recently I'd like to know about this strainer. Where does it fit? (In the pipework (anywhere at all or near the boiler?) or the boiler?). Does it need servicing, ie replacement filters or cleaning of some sort? Got a link?
I've been lurking in this group for a while now but this is the first I've seen on this. If it'll save me having damage dont to the boiler now is the time to do it.
But, if it's so important, isn't one built in to start with? (WB greenstar 30 condensing combi).
Something like BES part no 7533 if you have 22mm pipe.
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Some manufacturers include these in the fitting kit, some specify but don't supply.
The fitting goes in the return path to the boiler near to the boiler. The direction is indicated by an arrow.
Inside the Y branch when you undo the nut is a cylindrical fine mesh stainless steel strainer. The crud consisting of particles and bits of copper swarf are collected by it as the water passes through.
I found it easiest to put a full bore isolating valve on either side of it so that I can isolate it from the system without draining down or even depressurising. Once a year I just power off, undo the strainer, rinse it out under the tap, replace, open isolating valves and power up.
During the early period of installation, it might be worth checking more frequently in case there is more than average stuff.
For the cost of a tenner in bits, it's sensible to install one. Of course, if you've put inhibitor in and have to drain down it's a bit of a shame but still cheap.
Seems so simple! :) Sure I can find somewhere to put it, but so much piping is hidden I may have to make a hatch or summat for servicing it. Thanks for that.
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