Inexpensive reliable circular saw

[John Rumm]

or look here:

[Chris Wilson]

John Rumm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Cool, but wouldn't it be easier simply to clamp on a length of 2x1 and use that as a fence?

(Bought the circular saw now ... 160mm Worx affair)

[dennis]

No, you should try it and see.

[John Rumm]

Not really - there are several advantages of the saw board. First, because it is made with the saw in question, its edge marks exactly where the cut will be - so no need to adjust for the blade offset. Secondly the board itself reduces damage to the top surface - reducing splintering etc. Third it also stops the saw sole plate scratching the work. The result is much quicker and easier in use than any other type of batten.

[Skipweasel]

Easier for a one-off, yes. But once you've got a sawboard (or two - I find the 8' one rather unwieldy for smaller bits) you'll be glad you made one. For smaller bits there's the radial arm saw...

[Davidlang]

?

John Rumm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

that as a fence?

No, because you would need to clamp the 2 x 1 so that the left hand edge of the soleplate runs against it - to give maximum support to the saw. That means you would have to alter the depth adjustment so the motor clears the 2 x 1 - thus loosing depth of cut.

The batten on the sawboard only need to be around 6mm high & most saw motors will clear that anyway.

Most useful is that you only need to line the edge of the sawboard up with the cut line - because the board was cut with the saw in use, it will line up perfectly and you don't have to measure the offset between the edge of the sole plate & the blade.

(Bought the circular saw now ... 160mm Worx affair)

How much was it AAMOI?

Dave TMH

[Chris Wilson]

"Davidlang" wrote in news:_whWo.12261$ [e-mail]:

Thanks to *everyone* who's pointed out the usefulness of a Saw Board, knocked one together this morning and gave it a whorl - and I'm now a convert.

Just under £40

[stuart noble]

You'll be fine until you need a slightly longer one to, say, trim the long edge of a door. But then you can clamp any straightedge to the door (I find 6" contiboard useful as it gives room for the upside down G clamps) and, to avoid measuring, you only need a scrap of ply the same width as your sawboard to gauge the distance between the cut and the guide. I keep one with the saw at all times and, remarkably, I haven't lost it yet.

[The Medway Handyman]

You'll be fine until you need a slightly longer one to, say, trim the long edge of a door. But then you can clamp any straightedge to the door (I find 6" contiboard useful as it gives room for the upside down G clamps) and, to avoid measuring, you only need a scrap of ply the same width as your sawboard to gauge the distance between the cut and the guide. I keep one with the saw at all times and, remarkably, I haven't lost it yet.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When trimming the long edge of a door I use the rip guide provided with the saw.

-- Dave - The Medway Handyman

[stuart noble]

Power Devil don't supply those :-)

[Roger Mills]

Besides which, that's only any good if you need to take a parallel slice off. More often than not, the bit cut off needs to be tapered.

[stuart noble]

Ah, I see. TMH meant the metal guide you attach to the saw. I've never used those on any of the saws I've had. I just don't like the idea of the guide following the offcut, especially when you're only removing a sliver. As you say, the cuts are nearly always tapered anyway.

[stuart noble]

Ah, I see. TMH meant the metal guide you attach to the saw. I've never used those on any of the saws I've had. I just don't like the idea of the guide following the offcut, especially when you're only removing a sliver. As you say, the cuts are nearly always tapered anyway.