Ideal Concord WRS 240 - removal

[Hippo]

Hi All

Anyone know how to get this boiler off the wall without resorting to JCB / explosives !? Does anyone know how much it weighs roughly?

From what I can see, there is a frame on the wall which the boiler has been slotted in to. There are a couple of studs that are located into cut outs in the frame. I would guess that the boiler has been lifted into the slots, pushed back and then settled into a lower cut out (1/4'') to prevent it moving. The problem I have is there doesn't seem to be enough give to lift the thing up 1/4'' to bring it out. All the pipes connecting it have been disconnected. Is there something else to this?

TIA

Hippo

[Ed Sirett]

It unbolts. You seem to have found the studs. You're best bet is to try and remove the heat exchanger from the rest as this will reduce the total weight you have to move in one go. Evenso that part alone will be at least 50kg. Added to which you have to make sure that the dregs don't splash over the brand new kitchen... It will of course be positioned awkwardly.

Plenty.

2 people required for this job.

[Hippo]

Many thanks, two people will be giving it a go now.

I'm coming to the conclusion the house was built around the boiler :-)

[Christian McArdle]

Good luck. I had similar trouble with a Glowworm Fuelsaver F. The crowbar was my friend. Of course, after it is a mangled wreck on the floor, it becomes obvious where (but not why) the concealed fixings were.

Christian.

[Tony Bryer]

resorting to JCB /

As Ed says, a lot. I had one and got it off the wall single handed by undoing the nuts at the front of the studs and taking off the heat exchanger sections (2 IIRC) one at a time,

[Geo]

exactly 163 lb (74kg) dry

Correct. The frame is screwed to the wall with 3 coach screws 8 x 50 mm (5/16 x 2in)

The fitting instructions say "Lift the boiler onto the wall mounting plate, entering the projecting flue duct into the opening cut in the wall, and lowering the two suspension slots into the slotted bearers at the top of the wall mounting plate side angles. Fit the M8 washers and nuts and secure the boiler in position."

Well it took brute force to lift mine - had to use two ladders with a long plank between them holding the boiler. By geting my shoulder underneath I was able to slowly raise a rung at at time as my wife moved the ladders.

Next one will be floor mounted or fitted by someone else...

luck,

Geo

[John Rumm]

;-) I had one of those... it did take a while working out what to undo. In the end I went for the undo anything that might even remotely be holding it on approach, take it off the wall, then reattach anything spurious you took of needlessly!

(was still usable after... someone from this group had it, never did hear if he got it installed ok after though)

[Hippo]

Many thanks to all that responded.

We managed to get the front heat exchanger off quite easily, the rear part had to be ripped out of the frame as some iron bushes had rusted solid.

Then it all became clear, some wet plaster had fallen behind the boiler and set on top of the flue. This prevented any vertical movement and so stopped us lifting the boiler out of the frame. I didn't mind destroying the thing, there was no way it would run again, its 30yrs old and corroded very badly.

I can see the air in the kitchen slowly changing back from blue :-)

Hippo.

[Akhal]

replying to Hippo, Akhal wrote: Remove flue and side nuts

[Heliotrope Smith.]

After twelve years the op is probably replacing the replacement boiler.

[John Rumm]

Thank you so much for your valuable contribution... Shame the poor chap had to sit there in the cold for the last 12 years waiting to find out how to do it eh?

[Brian Gaff]

I think the side nuts are the people who use this crazy portal to usenet even though its obviously bust. Brian