... that there was a sealant that is more fluid than silicone - that could find its way - by capillary action - into the cracks and crevasses and then set like a silicone sealant. Then I could use the conventional silicone as a top-coat..
I have a very small gap between bath and the bottom of the first row of tiles. It is difficult to "inject" silicone into the small gap without getting a load everywhere else. It oozes out of the sides of the nozzle when I try and inject it into the gap.
Next step might be to lower the bath - inject some and then raise it again - but I am a bit reluctant and it is well settled.
I am quite proud of my ability to make a nice bead of sealant. I bought some plastic tools for doing the job - then a wet soapy finger and it looks great.
(But I really would like to go in deeper with something.)
Just sealed in and tiled the new bath this w/end. Most important thing I found is to always work with the bath full right to the overflow and keep it full until all sealant etc. has gone off.
I hate those sealing strips when stuck to the _outside_ of the tiles, but pressing and tacking in place then tiling over the strip give a very acceptable and flexible seal that will last 10 years or more without leaking or excessive discoloration.
You could try Dow Corning RTV 732 as the base seal (if you can find some), but note that it does tend to yellow with age. Fill the bath with water first. This will lower it and prevent the seal from cracking when you use the bath. Use masking tape to keep the seal tight and narrow.
After applying that, put normal silicone seal on top of it, with the same amount of water still in the bath. Silicone does not usually bond with itself, but if the first seal is quite small, make the second one much wider and as someone else has mentioned, use masking tape to define the width and some sort of pre defined radius guide to define the second application. Remove the masking tape immediately and smooth down with a finger whetted with some water with a little washing up liquid in it.
Not sure which way you are doing this, but the gun nozzle should be pushed in the direction that you are trying to fill. This should let you gauge how much filler to inject, without leaving any excess. The gun nozzle diameter should dictate what radius that the sealant takes on. If the finished result is a bit rough, use the wet finger bit below and then follow up with a wet cloth to wipe up any excess fingered out. It is important to get rid of any of the filler before you use the finish filler.
You only do that by filling the bath with as much water as you can get in it. Usually right up to the point that it over flows.
Try making your own silicone sealant. I've made parts from a silicone compound using a liquid matrix and a setting agent. It's quite liquid in its raw state, and can even be coloured to suit. Do a Google for 'silicon moulding'.
Nor mine. Its a carronite and pretty much screwed to the brick wall. It's usually the floor that gives slightly (if not the bath itself). I siliconed without water in, a no gaps appear when it is filled/used. Simon.
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