HP/Compaq laptop battery and/or charger problem

That IIIc color screen is a bit grainy at 160x160 resolution (My Droid is 480x800). Also it was impossible to see in direct sunlight. Later color models had the transreflective 320x320 screens which was a big improvement.

That was basically true.

The IIIxe had 8 Meg of memory just like the IIIc. Maybe you're thinking of the III which had 2 Meg.

Another advantage of the B&W Palms was that you could easily read them in direct sunlight.

I had an aftermarket rechargeable battery pack that fit into the battery compartment and sported a charging jack for the wall wart. It was kind of a waste though since I got around 25 to 35 hours on a set of plain old AAA alkalines.

Another clip on device I had was the dialup modem. Course using the thing in those things was like watching grass grow. I'm not sure which was slower, AOL or the Palm... ;)

Reply to
AJL
Loading thread data ...

They probably would at first, then the insurance would replace the house and they would regret the loss of all their memories.

Reply to
dennis

Their value is not always monetary. I would rather lose the house and have the insurance rebuild it than to lose the pictures of my family/friends. Likewise music collections (other than what my daughter plays) are of no value as they can be replaced by the insurance the same as the house.

Reply to
dennis

I just got a new used laptop and the battery doesn't last too long. Some places I read says to let it uncharge all the way a few times to restore it to full capacity. Would that work? I like to leave the laptop plugged in all the time but now what I read here is that's a bad think to do.

Reply to
digger

What technology is the battery? Lithium based ones don't like that, you just eat an extra cycle from the lifetime.

Reply to
Andy Burns

Used? Probably 80% chance it's a bad battery. But what do you use it for? Video really sucks the juice. And anything running in the background? These types of things can really shorten the battery life.

If it's an Li-ion battery some laptops manuals say to discharge the battery down to automatic turnoff once every few months to recalibrate the battery's microprocessor. Others are 'precalibrated' and have no such instructions. What does your manual say (if you have or can find one)? Probably wouldn't hurt to try it once just to see if it helps.

Mainly because the laptop heat reportedly reduces battery longevity. Personally I find it a hassle to always go hunting up the battery which may or may not be fully charged when I want to go mobile so I just leave mine laptops plugged in all the time. I've yet to have to buy a replacement. The one I'm using tonight (Acer 4315) is 4 years old and has been plugged in its whole life (whenever it's not mobile). I'm sure the battery has lost some capacity over the years but it is still quite serviceable.

Reply to
AJL

replying to Roger Mills, tahrey wrote: If you've got four years use out of each battery, you've done extremely well. I've not known laptop lithium batteries to last longer than that. Three years is more par for the course, and their usable capacity is already on the slide by the end of the second. The laptop I'm typing on is entering its sixth year, and has its second battery in place, which is already down to about 20% of original capacity. As the system is set to shut down into hibernation at 15% (a seemingly vain attempt to prevent over-discharge and the lifespan reduction that causes), that essentially means the machine is completely tied to the mains and the battery is only really useful to keep it alive for a couple of minutes when moving it between rooms (or sockets in the same room) without shutting down, or as a safety "parachute" if there's a sudden power cut.

That doesn't mean the power supply is behaving itself however - I've had to get an HP-Compaq laptop PSU replaced before as it failed in such a way that it had just enough power to run the laptop in light usage conditions, or charge the battery in a slightly sluggish fashion when the machine was turned off, but not both at the same time (and high power use would gradually drain a full battery). Whilst the battery is almost certainly dead, its death might have been hastened by a dicky supply. Sadly the only way you can really test it is by installing a working battery and observing the power-on charging behaviour, maybe with a third party battery / power use monitor utility (or an OEM one if they bothered to supply such). With the battery fully drained, it should be able to charge at a rate representing 0 to 100% in under two hours (or just one hour for some models), which then tapers off above 80~85%, with the machine turned on but idling or only working lightly. With the processor, graphics and disk working hard, that rate shouldn't drop to less than half and there should still be a taper-down noticeable above maybe 90%. Alternatively you can plug it into a power meter and see how much the PSU draws. At full tilt it should be somewhere around the rating printed on the body; if it's significantly less (below 75% or so, and particularly under 50%) even with the cooling fan howling and your lap being thoroughly cooked then it's probably defective.

An eight year old laptop, though, that's very much prime for replacement. I keep my computers running as long as reasonably possible, and then a little more, and I've not yet managed to keep a machine operating in a satisfactory manner with contemporary software much beyond its 7th year. At least not for those of middling to slightly above average performance, which tend to be the best value (not "cheapest"). If it was originally a top-of-the-range model I guess you may get an extra couple of years (I've seen Core 2 Duo/Quad desktops stretch well into their 8th year whilst still being just about usable), but even then I'd suggest you'd be better off resigning to the idea that it's had its day, and the failed battery and potentially iffy power supply are good reasons to replace the entire machine. You've definitely had your money's worth out of it, and even the cheapest, nastiest machine you can buy now will significantly outstrip a high end machine of 8 years ago in terms of performance. I'd be looking to replace this one already (the generational shift to 64-bit operating systems is increasingly leaving me disappointed when looking at the minimum specs of otherwise attractive software, as it only has

32-bit Windows and there's no point spending money on an OS upgrade for a machine that may only have another 12~18 months of service left in it), if only I wasn't out of work and increasingly short of cash right now.
Reply to
tahrey

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.