How to remove 5mm from door

[Stuart Noble]

5mm is easy to cut with a handsaw. A power plane really isn't necessary, or all the clearing up afterwards.

[Mathew Newton]

The power plane, or at least my crappy PPro one, is the *only* power tool I've ever used that does actually chuck all the waste out of the dust pipe - and with a hoover taped to it I'd be quite happy to do the planing in the middle of the lounge...

Mathew

[Cicero]

================== Have a look here:

might be an easier option than cutting the door.

Cic.

[Owain]

That's exceptionally generous of you.

Owain

[david lang]

Don't be silly Grunff, where are you going to find a saw blade with a 5mm kerf? Most are 3mm, so it would be easier to make 1 1/2 cuts with a normal blade.

Pearls before swine........................................

Dave

[david lang]

What you describe is a 'sawboard'

thing of wonderous beauty....................

Dave

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Heh! then the frame height would have to be higher.

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Ian White]

Certainly - wouldn't be without one. But...

Has anyone solved the problem of clamping a sawboard flat down onto the panel or door? A clamp that's close to the cutting edge will foul the saw plate passing over it, while a clamp on the guide rail tends to tilt the whole board and produce a bevelled cut.

The only solutions I've been able to think of would involve holes or slots in the bed, counterbored or routed to sink a bolt or clamp below the bed level... but then it would need a whole series of them... and that all seems too elaborate.

Is there a clamping method that's as simple as the sawboard itself?

[Cicero]

=================== Rising butt hinges are designed for clearing carpets (among other uses). A small chamfer is required on the top inner edge of the door. For a diagram see here:

[Chris Bacon]

Who discussed the option Greunff mentions? I don't remember it coming up. How do you make 1/2 a cut? Surely you cut, or you don't!

[Rob Morley]

Wobble washers.

[Stuart Noble]

The only difference between the "sawboard" and a piece of wood/ply/mdf is that the saw base doesn't run on the workpiece itself. Can't see why that would matter unless it was a window or something where there wasn't a flat surface covering the width of the baseplate . If you use a length of 6" contiboard, there should be plenty of room for c-clamps at the corners (upside down if necessary). Or you can reduce the depth of cut, which raises the saw body. Convert this to a T-square arrangement

+++ + + + + + + + + xx + + ++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++

with a block at xx to stop it tipping, and you don't need clamps at all. Possibly a few strips of rubbery stuff on the underside but I find the weight, plus the downward pressure of holding it in place, plus the upward pressure on the lower edge of the workpiece is enough. With a 6" width there's plenty of room for fingers

Doesn't matter if the guide isn't dead flat against the workpiece in the middle (although it would be with contiboard), as long as the gap doesn't allow the edge of the baseplate to slip under it.

Blimey. Aren't some simple things difficult to explain?

[david lang]

Hi Ian

I make mine up with a much wider base that extends both sides of the guide rail, then trim both egdes with my saw, so I have a kinda double edged saw board. Clamps go on the base not in use.

-------------=========--------------

Dave

[david lang]

Not so mate! The true beauty of the sawboard is that the edge of the base is exactly where the blade will cut - because the blade cut it. Makes marking out simple & accurate. No having to measure the offset between the edge of the baseplate and the blade.

The baseplate of the saw cant slip under the guide either.

It also does a great deal to minimise splintering and breakout because the base is pressing down on the wood being cut, as the blade comes up through it.

You do lose a little depth of cut, because of the base thickness and you have to adjust the saw so the motor clears the top of the guide rail.

As I said, a thing of wondrous beauty................

Dave

[Dave]

I've got one, and yes you can get new blades once you've destroyed both sides of the supplied ones (they're double sided and AFAICT pretty much a standard size)

Dave

[Mark]

I need to do this job in a hurry so I can't wait for the delay in mail order (esp. at this time of year!). I don't know any stores that sell decent hand saws. I've looked before and failed to find anything (but then I am not an expert in hand saws ;-).

I also have a small amount to shave off the bottom of a hardwood bath panel so a power plane might do both.

Cheers, Mark.

[zymurgy]

Google is your friend.

agree with Grunff, bloody perverse way to get out of plaing a door :-)

P.

[Chris Bacon]

That refers to removing a thin strip from the hinge side of the stile, not sawing the door in half.

[Mark]

It's not April 1st is it? ;-)

Mark

[Stuart Noble]

Ah I see! I use a ply "spacer" for the distance but the sawboard is an improvement, especially as I can't always find it.