Probably not needed, but I would suggest you find the transit braces for the washing machine and refit them to prevent the drum and counterweights going bouncey bouncey smash inside the casing.
The fridge and freezer should be kept upright; blanket over the fine tubes of the heat grille on the back to reduce likelihood of bashing. Keep stood upright and stationary for 12-24 hrs after moving before switching on.
Remember that first on the van = last off the van.
...and make sure they can't rub against anything else while being moved, or protect them in some way against rubbing contact caused by vibration, bumps and jolts while being transported. This is far more likely to cause damage than whatever it is they stand on.
FWIW; my (clothes) washing machine came with a ginormous metal _Transit Strap_ (which I've carefully kept and placed God only knows where. The 'wash machine' usually contains a big drum mounted on shock absorbers (Springs and/or hydraulic/gas struts) to cater for the spinning motion. AIUI, the maechanism must be restrained during transit to obviate damage. Before you worry about the cosmetic _outside_ of the machine , I'd worry about the innards.
They will be happier standing on a firm floor. Fit the original transport fixings to the washing machine, or take the top off and tie the drum so that it cannot wobble about. Cover the appliances with old blankets and strap well to the internal goods rails.
Better still, get a removals firm to do the job - they have proper insurance for your stuff while it is transit. You almost certainly will not be covered if anything happens on the journey.
The message from "Dot Net Work" contains these words:
Don't tip the freezer up. They don't like it. Apparently the oil in the compressor sloshes around and gets into the capillary tubing and blocks it. Keep it vertical and don't switch it on till it's been standing upright for half a day after transport.
Re-fitting them can sometimes be tricky - if you can even find them.
One tip I've come across is to stuff the drum really full with the contents of the laundry basket. The friction between the contents and the inside of the door is supposed to help dampen the vibration in transit. I haven't had the need to do this so can't vouch for the effectiveness but it shouldn't do any harm and might be better than doing nothing.
If someone could invent a water-soluble squirty foam, that could be used in the factory and then the first hot wash cycle would clear it; it could also be sold separately for such applications as moving house and immobilising small children until bathtime.
Ideally, goods straps. They have hooks to engage in the goods rails and clip that tensions the strap as you close it. Some have a ratchet to tighten the strap, but that is really only for use with loads, such as machinery, that can take the high loads they can impose. If you don't get straps with the van, strong, non-stretch rope.
Thanks for the info - about these straps, I've just had a look on ebay, and you can get straps that can cope with different kilogram weights. Some are 250kg, others are much higher for eg 900kg, and others in the Ton category.
Also, the lengths vary too - some are 2 metres, others go up to 8 metres.
For 3 kitchen appliances in a Luton van, do you know very roughly which ones I should get, and how many?
PS - got to order them today really for a Monday move, so any info asap would be greatly appreciated!
Mine are rated at 500kg, but I would expect 250kg ones to cope quite happily with three kitchen appliances.
8 metre straps will go right across a large load on a lorry, so are in the overkill category. However, the length given is the maximum and it is the nature of the straps that they can be adjusted for length, so too long will usually be better than too short. The only caveat being that the end with the buckle is a fixed length, which sets the minimum length you can use. I find 3m straps a very useful length for holding things in my box trailer.
You will, at a minimum, need one around all three units at about 2/3 the height of a worktop height unit. If you have a tall fridge freezer, you would be advised to have another around the top of that. However, you will probably find that an extra strap gives you better flexibility in how you fix them inside the van. BTW, hiring a van with a tail lift would make getting them in and out a lot easier and a sack truck is very useful for moving them about. You can position a kitchen appliance very accurately with a sack truck - again, use old blankets to protect the exterior when moving them on a sack truck.
I've just bought some cargo straps quite cheaply from ebay (1 x 6metre, and 4 x 4metres) That ought to be well enough!
I think the removals chap mentioned tail-lift on the phone when we arranged this, so that's good, and I'm just hoping he has a sack truck
- I think he's probably got something we could use. I can't afford to get one now, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that one.
Oh, and I've got plenty of old curtains and things to protect the exterior, and I could also stuff a load of old bed sheets in the drum as well. Plus I've found the drum bracket thingy that I can bolt on to the back before moving it. And I was thinking of taping some bubblewrap to the backs of the fridge & freezer to protect the "coils"
Now all I need to do is turn off the stopcock and hope that'll allow me to disconnect the pipe ok!
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