How to hard wire a Tumble dryer to 30amp

Hi all

Could send me a link to a product that I would use to hard wire a Tumble dryer to 30amp

Thanks

Reply to
Satshergill
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A cooker flex outlet would do it. You need an isolating switch too (a cooker switch will do).

Another option is a BS4343/CEE17 32A plug and socket, but not if this is fitted in a house (as they aren't shuttered).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I read this as something like: I want to wire my [ordinary] tumble dryer to a 30A supply cable [which is in place for a cooker I don't have].

If that's the case then I would have thought an FCU with 13A fuse fitted in place of the cooker flex outlet would have been more appropriate.

Reply to
Ed Sirett

On reflection, you're probably right. I was thinking he had a 30A tumble drier which is less likely.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

OTOH, I do have a 16A tumble dryer, which is currently on its 10A setting, as there is no simple way of running it safely from a 32A radial circuit. At some point, I was going to find some way of using the 16A setting, but there are too many more important things to do.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Sorry

I should have said I want to connect a 30amp Tumble dryer to the supply

I'm thinking of buying a Whirlpool LEQ8000 from comet

The product booklet is at

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here it talks about Hard wiring with a 3 wire direct connect. If someone could have a read as I'm confused with Grounding/earthing

Many Thanks

Reply to
Satshergill

Having read it, I don't think it is suitable to direct connection to UK or European electrical systems.

There are two issues, one easily resolved, the other not.

The first issue is that the earth is combined with the neutral, which is an extremely serious and dangerous violation of the wiring regulations. Instructions are given for separating them, though.

The real problem is that the power required is 110V AC phase and anti-phase. This is simply not available in Europe without a very expensive transformer.

Are you sure you aren't considering a European version of this dryer to which these instructions do not apply?

Note that US style appliances are almost always far more energy inefficient than European appliances. Apparently Americans believe that they have a God given right to destroy the environment.

For your information, it would appear that the terms 3-wire and 4-wire mean in this context:

3 wire - Tx-C earthed 110V AC 2 phase (phase + antiphase) + PEN (illegal in the UK) 4 wire - Tx-x-S earthed 110V AC 2 phase (phase + antiphase) + neutral + earth (legal, but uncommon outside USAF bases)

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Try asking here

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it may be that there is a uk model that has 220v controls as whell as a 220v heater

Reply to
James Salisbury

On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 13:54:37 -0000, "Christian McArdle" strung together this:

That's what I'd have thought as the OP mentioned that were thinking of getting it from Comet. I don't go in there but I don't think they sell

110V US appliances.

If it is a 230V European version that the OP is considering then I would use either a 30A cooker outlet plate for connection to a suitably rated flex or use a 4x4x2 PVC adaptable box with flexible conduit and singles.

Reply to
Lurch

Try getting your facts right. The spec calls for a 240V supply, as

110-0-110 is the nominal low end of the US 120V voltage range. In the real world, 110V varies at least between 88V and 133V. US tumble dryers are far better at clothes drying without creases than any European domestic product my wife has ever used. Their energy efficiency is on a par with all European non condensing tumble dryers. The product is also repairable at low cost, for probably the next 20 years, unlike the short lived local products which destroy much more of the environment.

Splitting the neutral and ground is probably not necessary, as the product is being sold by Comet to a BS spec. It is almost certain that the unit can simply be "plugged" in and work. Having previously looked at this problem for our kitchen, I came to the conclusion, that a new radial feed from the supply point would be called for, which would require me to add a new consumer unit element as a spare way was not available. I also looked at the gas version of these products, as the gas supply would have been easier to modify and the OP may want to consider this option.

Regards Capitol

Reply to
Capitol

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