How to build a loft hatch?

[Rob Horton]

If I am going to re-build my loft hatch, do I have to conform to any new building regulations or can I do what ever I want?

What I want to do is fit a frame within the existing opening using wooden strips. The hatch will be cut from 18mm plywood and will fit within the opening up against the newly fitted frame. The ceiling side of the hatch will be flush with the ceiling. I will have self adhesive foam strips stuck to the loft side of the hatch which will be compressed against the frame, hopefully forming a moisture and draught seal. I will then fix some celotex to the loft side of the hatch for insulation.

Any opinions?

Thanks.

[Stuart Noble]

If in doubt, assume there's a regulation, and then ignore it.

Make it up as a free standing unit with the hinges, catches etc before fixing it to the joists. Loft openings are invariably out of square and it's easier to fill a few gaps between the joists and the frame than to tailor the door to fit a wonky frame.

18mm ply's a bit heavy for a swing down door. I'd use 12mm blockboard

[Mathew Newton]

I've just done exactly the same, except:

- 12.5mm MDF instead of the ply just because I had a suitably-sized piece (75cmx75cm) piece available

- Opens from the top (loft) side i.e. the door is recessed into the ceiling

- Door hinged from above and utilises a 'pub style' counter catch to keep it in the open position

All other aspects, e.g. foam strips, insulation etc just the same. All in all does a super job for only a few quid.

Mathew

[TMC]

As others have said build the frame and hang the door before fitting

I made a door from 2 bits of 3mm ply and 2 x1 timber much like a normal panel door but put a piece of polystyrene sheet inside for insulation.

This has worked for 30 years so far with regular access

Tony

[Mathew Newton]

Just to add a few things to what I wrote earlier... There are some advantages to having an 'upward opening' (i.e. frame underneath) door including:

- The criticality of cutting a perfectly shaped door to be (out of) square with the existing hole is greatly reduced given that the battons cover the door edge hence giving ~15mm leeway

- You can use a thinner door (lighter) given that it is supported all round the perimeter hence there'll be no sagging even for a door my size compared to if was only secured at the hinges/catch

- The weight of the door will keep a good seal with the rubber strips even as they compress over time

[Roger Mills]

Makes sense. Nice job!

The only problem, as I see it, with a door which opens upwards is that it would prevent you from installing and using a loft ladder.

[Mathew Newton]

Possibly, yes. Although I guess it might depend on the ladder and exactly how it fixes/functions? We just use a stepladder but I admit it's not for everyone...

The other problem for me is that my hatch is now 30mm smaller in each dimension... And I distinctly remember that the desk we've got stored in the loft only *just* fitted through the opening all those years back... D'oh! ;-)

Mathew

[Roger Mills]

I think it's more than possibly! Every loft ladder I've seen parks *across* the hole - so you wouldn't be able to open the hatch. Or, if you installed it with the hatch open (which you'd have to do!) you wouldn't be able to shut the hatch.

[Mathew Newton]

Ah yes... And, more to the point, you would of course need a ladder anyway to get up to swing open the hatch!!

To the OP, caveat all my advice therefore with the warning regarding loft ladders as opposed to stepladder access!

Mathew