On 27/08/2011 17:23,
Agreed. I think I would be inclined to use joist hangers (with wedges in the "socket" below to adjust height, because you'll never get them all level), also to make sure there is an effective sleeper wall at mid-span.
Well as Captain Pickard would say "Make it so";!..
Well the one olde Victorian house we had was supposed to have had damp but after they came and squirted that injectable damp proof course it still was damp. When we sorted out the leaking gutters and blocked drain its been fine since than;)..
Most of the injected DPC when right thru the wall and into the space under floor the vents to which were blocked op as someone has replaced the vent bricks with solid ones! I suppose in a mistaken belief then they'd keep the place warmer;!...
Ahh..well, the various sources of damp/water and the state of the ventilation are other issues that will need plenty of attention in this house: A good bit of drainage work is on the agenda, along with providing (or re-instating) decent levels of ventilation in various locations. All sorts of long-standing bodgery needs to be dealt with. The best aspect is that there is little doubt about whether most of the jobs need to be done (!) The challenge at the moment is working out the jigsaw puzzle of the sequence of jobs and being rational about what has to be paid for and what I should DIY.
The floor I have in mind here has a 'real' cellar under it, which is actually quite high in my experience of cellars (maybe 7 - 8').
Nonetheless, your suggestion here is an interesting one as there is another (living) room, which has alleged rot under the floor and I was quoted an equivalent amount for replacement. According to the (expensive) damp and timber people, the key problem with this is a lack of free ventilation (air brick at the front, none at the back, with the added problem or there being a conservatory at the back, so not an easy job to introduce a vent). This has about 3 feet of space beneath, so in the range you describe here. I hadn't really thought about making it a solid floor but doing this would allow underfloor heating, which would be nice. The floor runs from front to back and, as the conservatory already has a solid floor, there would be no (obvious) problem with blocking ventilation. I shall have to mull on this one - Thanks for the idea!
You can't get crossflow ventilation in this case without installing vents in the wooden floor farthest from the front of the house, these will have to go actually in the floorboards and carpeted around.
Downside is you've got cold air coming through them, upside is that your floors will last longer than 10 years, but not if there's no ventilation, and at the moment, there is none
If you're desperate to save a few hundred, you can use cut up angle iron as joist hangers - industrial dexion, not flimsy domestic stuff. Cut with an angle grinder.
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John,
I was reflecting on this post and wondering where you see £200 in metalwork. I was thinking ~30 joist hangers and half that number of herring bone struts which, combined, would be well shy of £100 (unless bought in completely the wrong place). It's not that I mind the cost, simply that I might be missing a bit in my estimation of the design: Are you assuming a steel member running along the middle of a 14 ft floor or something like that?
In other news, we exchanged contracts today, so this (together with a whole load of other jobs) is going to become a reality in a month. Just in time for the weather to cool down and the evenings to draw in, sadly.....
Most of your work will be in the cellar, and they stay remarkably constant temperature wise regardless of the weather.
Well to be fair I did not go and cost it - so don't read too much into my estimate - it was more a worst case figure. (I looked at what it cost to do my loft and worked back a bit - quite possibly not far enough).
Timber struts at the ends, and jiffy hangers ought to be pretty cheap. Masonry shoes for each joist would cost more (you would also need 4 expanding sleeve anchors per shoe which would rack up more cost).
A quick look at screwfix prices suggests that £100 for the metalwork should certainly be doable.
Oh, make a list of all the stuff that can't wait, and you need daylight for, and tackle that first I guess.
=A0 London SW
Well...it will be for this job, but the list goes on...and on !
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Ahh...that's a relief - I thought maybe I was missing something crucial!
Good plan - by the time I finish the list, it'll be spring and the days will be longer......
Cheers
On the subject of which ... does anyone have any recommendation for a todo list manager that handles subtasks (not necessarily nested) and dependencies between tasks and subtasks?
I don't really care if it's Windows, Linux, Android or browser based , but preferably *not* something that thinks it's a full-blown project manager.
Just do it bit by bit and carefully. You'll be rewarded in the end with house with far more character (and space) than a modern one.
How odd, I've got a no-name £25 unit from Makro and that works perfectly well at mid-day, in Italy.
Depends on how far you want to go... for simple list tracking I use ToDo List Lite i.e. the free version of to do list 7 from:
Nope - probably just not apportioning the the costs of the various steel bits and bobs. I paid about £430 for the steel to do:
That was for 4 flitch plates, plus long hangers for the ends of the joists where they join F, ordinary hangers for all the joins to B and C, plus bolts, dog washers etc. I had a couple of extra steel plates to bridge the join of beams D & G which really did have to meet end on with only 2" of end on the wall (the rest actually sailed passed each other).
The plates were probably about half of that, and most of the hangers were not actually that expensive. It was all the extra niff naff like long 12mm bolts, nuts, plate washers that actually added quite a bit of unexpected cost. The result was that an essentially "wood" floor cost more in steel than wood! (and that included some C24 stress grade stuff as well).
IME several springs later ;-)
feature list but I'll downloD THE DEMO, thanks.
No I don't need all that, I only want it to remind me of dependent tasks that need doing first, most of the cheap'n'cheerful stuff only handles that for subtasks, but i want to keep them separate (e.g. separate jobs by room, but to have a reminder to drop interlinked fire alarm cable into kitchen ceiling before tiling bathroom floor).
And a reminder to check ceiling/floor voids for recently used tools before entombing them forever (or at least until Indiana builder comes along). I have lost (and gained) a surprising number of tools due to this :)
a few years ago, I had to remove a ceiling panel in our, recently buit theatre. I found a string of builders' lights which had been left behind since someone had forgotton to remove them before the internal walls were built up.
free trial. Am I blind or otherwise afflicted?:-)
regards
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