Hi,
I currently looking at buying a repo that needs a lot of work doing.
Being used to doing my own diy, I've lost track of how much it costs to get things done.
But this particular property needs too much doing to it before I can move in so I'm going to have to sub some of it out.
So how much should I expect to pay for a full (small) bathroom refit using quality, but not designer, fitments.
TIA
tim
Can you be more precise about standard?
You could spend a few hundred to a few thou (or even 10's of thou) on parts alone ranging from "cheap and bright with vinyl flooring and just enough wall tiles" to "proper pukka decent ordinary suite plus lots of tiles on wall and floor" to "genuine recon antique fitments in the style of Louis XIV".
Labour I would guess is pretty much dependent on time more than anything else, and a bathroom fitter could be in and out in just a few days unless there are any gotchas.
I have found bathstore.com to be a good place for not expensive (but not the cheapest) *decent quality* ordinary baths/bogs/basins. My bath is plastic but it's pretty solid (I did frame it in 100% of the rim - but even so, cheap plastic baths can still be a bit wibbly).
My bog which was a high level flush is the only bog I have seen ever that has resisted anyone's attempts to block it with too much bog paper. It's partly the high level, partly the throat is smooth and properly glazed and partly I wired it almost straight into 110 pipe without having a long length of narrow WC pan connector.
I cannot help you with labour costs at the moment - I am just about to ask for quotes for plumbing, tiling, fitting and a bit of wall demolition for our bathroom refurb. As far as materials are concerned the following may help, the prices have had 25% or more discount applied from list and include vat - you will probably find some a bit cheaper with some googling. I think my shopping list is, like your requirement, for good quality but not outrageously expensive kit.
Ideal Standard 55 cms semi-recessed basin 144.54 Ideal Standard BTW WC pan with standard seat 254.50 Dudley Vantage 6/4 concealed cistern 110.95 Lakes 1000x900 pivot door shower enclosure and tray 564.30 Mira Select EV thermostatic shower unit 266.24 Eastbrook/Carron 166x700 Carronite bath 350.00 Carronite bath panels 205.44 Reina Isaro 110x500 heated towel rail 187.70 Mayfair Wave basin and bath mixer taps 142.40
I am also taking advantage of the current Wicke's 50+15% discounts to get the vanity and BTW cabinets and a couple of other cupboard and drawer units.
The tiles look like coming from BCT as they have a factory shop about
15 miles away.-- rbel
couple of grand?
Well I'm not going to buy the £199 B&Q value pack, but I'm not expecting to spend more than 500 pounds on the fittings.
Fully tiled using basic, modern style, tiles.
Wasn't including the flooring, I can go back and do that later. I can do the "remove old tiles" part myself . As I can putting a cupbaord/mirror on the wall.
This is the bit that I really wanted to know. Assuming no gotchas what can I expect?
Here's a pic of the current room:
As you can seed it needs a shower fitting. I'm in two minds as to whether I should add an electric one, or one fed off the hot water. And whether to fit a fixed screen or a curtain. (I will rarely use the shower)
Add there needs to be a new supply for a vanity light and shaver point.
It also needs the supply to the extractor "repairing" as it seems not to work off the light switch, would a plumber do that as part of a full job or would that have to be separate task for a sparks? (This part of the job is one that is beyond my knowledge level and I'd have to get someone in for this even if I did do all of the rest myself!) - Just how do you wire up an extractor so that it comes on with the light, but remains on (on timer) after the light is switched off?
tim
tim..... spake thus:
You buy an extractor with an inbuilt timer. It'll have a permanent live feed and a switched live feed.
couple of grand
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Than was my initial thought!
But I was disabused from that notion when my sister got a quote for 17 grand, yes that was seventeen grand.
OK so it was for ridiculously expensive fittings but even after you stripped that out the labour cost was 8K.
tim
Two things about curtains:
1) the prettiest ones, which hang nicely, are not waterproof - a direct jet of water pointed at them lets a fine mist through. The ones which are waterproof are more like thick plastic than fabric.2) a curtain is a really cheap way to introduce a substantial bit of colour and make a room more cheerful, and - of course - you can change the 'look' very easily
Hi,
Three years ago, labour only £1275 plus £300 for complete re-plaster, in North Yorkshire. That was to install full bathroom suite, separate shower, and tile about 33% of the room.
Mike
All the ones I have had consisted of an inner plastic curtain and an outer fabric one, so waterproof on the inside, looks OK on the outside.
Shower screens are supposed to look nice, but are usually impractical since they are too short (unless you get a telescopic one). And the rubber bits that are supposed to seal against the bath soon get manky. A decent curtain and rail is fine, and allows you to use more of the bath instead of squashed up near one end.
Simon.
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must be Londung prices
Supply basic (£100) bath, taps, sink, toilet and 16 sq. m of tiles, and other ancilaries - £1000 upward. I can do that in 4 days, and make £500 on it easily. That includes hiding all pipes by chasing them in, or putting them under floors, and painting the ceiling. For better quality, £1500 would be a starting point, taking into account the better products. However, apart from the design of them, baths and basins are much of a muchness, (apart from the 350 baths which are junk)
Alan.
Thanks
Though I doubt that round 'ere I'll find someone to work for 125 a day, (even Dave doesn't do that). For a specialist plumber twice that is probably the starting point (but still within my expected total price)
The one nod to "better" I was expecting to take is a bath made out of thicker plastic as I can't stand the way the thinner ones flex. Are you saying that this isn't worth paying for?
tim
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must be Londung prices
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Unfortunately not.
Without giving too much away, it's sort of Harrogate pricing - a small pocket of "we'll charge more because we know that there are people who will pay it", when no-one five miles down the road would
tim
In message , tim..... wrote
I've been looking at bath/toilet/sink combinations.
Plastic bathes - you pay a lot more for baths with bulges and baths with handles but taking a "standard bath" there doesn't seem to be much difference in the quality of the construction between cheap and expensive baths. Some of the more sturdy ones seem to be towards the cheap end of the range
Porcelain sinks and bogs: The price seems to be more to do with the style rather than quality with the truly ugly ones costing a lot more.
My thinking is to go for a budget all-in set of a plain (traditional) design but to chuck the taps they come with and fit something better.
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we had a quote 2 years ago for £13k - bath, shower, wc and basin, new ch radiator, replaster ceiling and walls then tiles allround. Needless to say we didn't go with it.
Well going on the baths I looked at for the old bathrooom (about 10+ years ago) IMO it certainly is.
some didn't feel very substantial at all. We put in a corner bath. It was 8mm acrylic from Ideal standard. It wasn't a cheapy bath, but nor do I remember it being esp. expensive. It had a decent thick bit of chipboard or somesuch to support the base, and came with decent supports. Once fitted it felt sturdy.
Though I don't like the way acrylic baths scratch, no matter how careful you are. I'm thinking of enamelled steel this time for the bathroom I need to get done this year.
Yep, look at them first. Some are see through - I'm not joking. Anything from B+Q is crap IMO. Go to a proper Plumbers Merchant rather than bath shops, as they will only sell stuff that doesnt get returned to them, rather than stuff that has the biggest retail margin. Alan.
so you can have it chip, instead?
What would you suggest.
Acrylic or fibreglass, both of which scratch if you look at them too hard, or enamelled steel or cast iron that chips with rather more difficulty? Or something else entirely?
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