How can I best fit adjustable shelves in solid wall cupboard ?

I was original going to fit this type of bracket

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the drawback on this type is the space below the shelve that one has to leave.

Ideally I like the ones that are fitted to bookcases. ie 4 clips, 2 on each side (similar to kitchen shelves).

But other than fixing a board either side, I can't figure out how best to do this.

If I do fit a board either side, it will certainly make it look better inside the cupboard. But I've never fitted bookcase version that can be seen here

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I need to router out a groove for this type ? If so has anyone reading this done this before ?

Reply to
andysideas
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Yes that type of shelving bracket does look nice when fitted flush with the surface of the wood, however not necessary needed flush if you don't mind it showing. and a router is needed if you do needed it recessed into wood.

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

pieces out of each shelf to accommodate them or have a gap at each side - neither very pretty.

The other thing to watch out for is strength. The Spur ones that you illustrated first are steel and have a considerable load bearing capacity. Many of these smaller products have aluminium components and are nowhere near as strong.

A router is one way - probably the most typical. A grooving cutter on a table saw could also be used.

Reply to
Andy Hall

If you have vertical timber surfaces either side of the shelf, then there's no doubt that routing grooves is the neatest way to go. However, I've used these fittings to put shelves in an open alcove where there was plastered brick on both sides (fittings screwed directly to the walls), and they look OK. I think if you're fitting them inside of a cupboard, you wouldn't see the slight gaps at either end anyway.

One caveat - shelves fitted this way are vulnerable to sagging - mine are 14mm contiboard, about 1 m by 20 cm. They're fine for what I put on them, but I certainly couldn't fill them with books, for example.

David

Reply to
Lobster

==================== These fittings (called 'Tonks fittings', I believe) are actually very strong as they've been used in library shelves for many years. If you do want the shelves to carry the weight of books then just use stronger shelving. The fittings themselves will easily take the weight especially if they're fitted in a routed rebate. It won't be a big job to rout the grooves as the fittings are only about 3mm deep.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Sure, I didn't mean to imply that the fittings were not strong; on the contrary in fact: it's just that their design means you're only supporting the shelf at its ends and not along its length. So yes, you need particularly beefy (or short!) shelves if you're going to put any reasonable weight on them.

David

Reply to
Lobster

What did they use before routers were invented?

MBQ

Reply to
manatbandq

Grooving planes. Google for it. A nice example here:

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Reply to
chris_doran

================== Many years ago I used something like this (the large parallel type) in a hand drill held in a Black & Decker bench mount:

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was hard work but worth it for the result. A modern cheap router would make easy work of the job.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Craftsmen. ;-)

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

Probably a milling machine.

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you all

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Reply to
andysideas

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