I would like to up the water pressure to the kitchen sink, would this be as simple as adding a pump inline with the feed from the tank to the grown floor ?
If so does anyone have any recommendations on pumps ?
TIA.
Stick a pressurised hot water cylinder in then you'll have plenty of hot water. Why is the pressure to your sink so low?.I would have thought that in an open vented system,the downstairs taps would have the better flow rate?
Remove antispam and add 670 after bra to email
->->
->>
->>
->>I would like to up the water pressure to the kitchen sink, would this be as
->>simple as adding a pump inline with the feed from the tank to the grown floor ?
->>
->>If so does anyone have any recommendations on pumps ?
->>
->>TIA.
->Stick a pressurised hot water cylinder in then you'll have plenty of
->hot water. Why is the pressure to your sink so low?.I would have
->thought that in an open vented system,the downstairs taps would have
->the better flow rate?
I don't want more pressure upstairs as I only have a hand basin and a power shower.
The pressure has always been poor, but a newly fitted kitchen tap is one of those pull out jobbies that oxygenate the water, it would seem it needs higher pressure to work properly.
Geoff wrote
I use a Grundfos Home Booster UPA-15/90
Built in flow switch: I fitted mine adjacent to the HW cylinder, so all taps benefit, but it was really for the kitchen.
It will go streaight into 22mm, but for some reason they supply adapters for 15mm, which can be ignored
->Geoff wrote
->
->> I would like to up the water pressure to the kitchen sink, would this
->> be as simple as adding a pump inline with the feed from the tank to
->> the grown floor ?
->>
->> If so does anyone have any recommendations on pumps ?
->>
->I use a Grundfos Home Booster UPA-15/90
Thanks for that I'll look them up.
Geoff wrote
I get most of my gear from BHL; very reliable and I think the cheapest, specially when you count free delivery, but I may be wrong....
Can I just check that it is only the hot that needs boosting? The cold tap in the kitchen should be fed off the mains so that it is drinking water. The mains should not be pumped directly.
With a pumped power shower, you should probably be careful to provide an unpumped supply to the this. Pumping it twice may have unpredictable effects.
Christian.
->> ->I use a Grundfos Home Booster UPA-15/90
->>
->> Thanks for that I'll look them up.
->
->Can I just check that it is only the hot that needs boosting? The cold tap
->in the kitchen should be fed off the mains so that it is drinking water. The
->mains should not be pumped directly.
Only the hot and only to downstairs, the whole house runs on cold direct from the mains (with the exception of the powershower upstairs)
->With a pumped power shower, you should probably be careful to provide an
->unpumped supply to the this. Pumping it twice may have unpredictable
->effects.
I suspect the effect would be a large puddle !
->Geoff wrote
->
->> ->>
->> ->I use a Grundfos Home Booster UPA-15/90
->>
->> Thanks for that I'll look them up.
->>
->>
->I get most of my gear from BHL; very reliable and I think the cheapest,
->specially when you count free delivery, but I may be wrong....
->
->
Geoff wrote
No carriage from bhl. :-)
(35 mm bending spring???? WTF you going to bend? Been going to the gym?)
Also, give them a bell and ask for Geoff (Jeff). They aren't limited to the website catalogue.
I've looked at the data file for this pump on the Grundfos site. One factor which defeats the whole purpose of this pump is that it requires a 2m head minimum at the suction port - I'm sure that this is necessary for it's design but my cottage has about 2.2m head so once again I'm not any further forward as 0.2m is really too fine a margin. This did seem a cheap and easy solution to my lack of pressure too.
Rob
snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com wrote
If they say minimum 2m, I'd think they've left themselves a margin, so if you're only a sniff outside or even less you'd be OK.
Equally, or more important is to have a good flow into the pump, clear 22mm with no obstructions, ie full bore valves used, so that the supply side is able to cope.
I think my head is about 2.5m (I'm not getting the ladder out this time of night, but it's 1.4m from pump to kitchen ceiling), and mine works perfectly.
Could be worth asking them?
Surely 2m minimum means what it says - if you've got 2.2m, you're in! Who said anything about needing a further margin?
->Geoff wrote
->
->> ->>
->> ->I get most of my gear from BHL; very reliable and I think the
->> cheapest, ->specially when you count free delivery, but I may be
->> wrong.... ->
->> ->
->> Thanks I was going to use plumbworld as they sell the 35mm bending
->> spring I'm after but they don't sell any suitable pumps and bhl don't
->> sell the springs looks like two lots of carriage :-(
->>
->No carriage from bhl. :-)
Thanks for that.
->(35 mm bending spring???? WTF you going to bend? Been going to the gym?)
35mm pipe ;-) using it for plumbing a rear mounted radiator in a 4x4.->Also, give them a bell and ask for Geoff (Jeff). They aren't limited to the
->website catalogue.
Will do.
Just subscribed to this forum, and my wife is very happy for some reason...
I'm going to install a 15-90 following the advice you have all given on this thread, so thanks very much. I'm an amature (Comms engineer, definately not a plumber) and as such i'm confused by the last couple of posts. Surely the requirement of a 2m head at the suction port refers to the net difference in height from the header tank outlet to the rising feed in to the pump (from the immersion tank)? In that case
2.2m is just great?I have more than 2m from the header to the place I wish to fit the pump, but how close (or far) is it possible to mount the pump from the immersion tank outlet? Is there a general principle to adhere to?
Cheers,
Browdee
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember " snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com" saying something like:
It's from the surface of the water in the feed tank to wherever the pump inlet is.
snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com wrote
Having some mains around would be nice, and there's often some near the hot water cylinder controlling the heating.
The pump takes half an amp, so should be fine off the CH FCU
Mine is straight off the tank outlet after the vent, in 22mm pipe which the pump pipe connections (3/4 bsp?) fit nicely - it came with 15mm (1/2") adaptors which were not needed.
It can be mounted anywhere, if you only wish to target a certain area....(I theeenk - the beauty of talking rubbish here is that we'll both find out in jig time if I am) ;-)
I emailed Grundfos with my concern about the head and the answer was this. The flow switch requires 2l /min; Grundfos equates this to a pint in 15 seconds - in fact it is a pint in 14.1 seconds.
I measured the hot water flow from my mixer tap which is one of these extendable ones - ie it's on a shower head hose, hence the loss of flow at the tap outlet - as a pint in 13 seconds, which is pretty marginal from the required spec. An ordinary tap in the next door toilet area does the biz in 4 seconds. So there is two requirements - one is that there is sufficient flow when the tap is opened to trip the flow switch and secondly a minimum head is required to make sure that there is adequate flow into the pump at the input port.
So it's all very well having the head but if the flow at the tap is low you're not going to get the pump to switch on.
Rob
snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com wrote
A few experiments indicate that that's pretty accurate - however I think their specs are reliable and inside is inside
More important, if you've got the specified head, is a clear flow from the header tank to the HWC.
I made sure I had a clear 22mm run as straight as possible, and replaced the gate valve with a full bore ball valve.
You could always wire a push-button** momentary switch in parallel with the flow switch. Push the button to start the pump - which will keep going due to the high pumped flow rate, until you close the shower valve.
** It would probably need to be a pull switch in a bathroom - I assume you can get momentary ones, rather than just toggling ones?HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.