'Hot Box' heater wattage

Hi, all.

I'm building a Hot Box :-) Now, Now. Settle down there in the back.

This is a wooden box, about the size of a coffin ( say 6 ft x 3 ft by 2 ft ). It's purpose is to hold 4 pairs of skis at a temperature of around 50 -55 deg C for several hours ( to aid wax penetration into the base structure ). It's critical that the temperature does not rise above around 60 degrees ( the p-tex base begins to melt much above that.. ) The temprature may be permitted to cycle reasonably far below the set-point without any harm. I'll just be using the heater's integral stat most likely, not any whizz-bang computerised controll: as I say, I don't mind a reasonable hysteresis, so long as I can limit the temperature at the peak of the cycle.

This will be used in my garage ( part of the house, not warm, but not cold either. )

The general advice is to use an oil-filled 'baseboard heater', along with a circulating fan in the cabinet. The general consensus is that the oil-filled units produce temperature fluctuation cycles which are more damped than using a straight fan heater. This helps avoid big temperature 'spikes' when the heater cycles on.

The question I have is: what kind of wattage of heater would perform reasonably in this role? It obviously depends on the heat loss from the box. Assume say an un-insulated 18mm plywood box in a domestic garage. Since we're only going up to 55 degrees, I'm hoping the temperature gradient from inside to outside is small enough that the heat loss will be low enough to permit the use of a fairly low wattage heater.

I suspect the answer is suck-it-and-see :-)

Just looked at my kitchen fan oven. It's 2.5KW, and can ramp the oven up to over 250 deg C. It's insulated, and smaller, but the heat loss at that temp will be fairly high.

I'm thinking of trying something in the range of

Reply to
Ron Lowe
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I'd try a 200w bulb.

PS baseboard heaters arent oil filled. Extra thermal capacity in the heater will simply enable/cause the cabinet temp to rise further once the stat switches the heater off. And they dont normally have an integral stat - and if you use one that does, its not gonna go to 55C. You'll need a separate stat that does.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Reply to
Andy Dingley

OK for smaller boxen: had a propogator about 40cmx50cm, ally plate with Perspex cover, box underneath. Used a 60W bulb and it blew in about a month (even with a 'stat). Wired the 'stat to 2x100W in series, dull orange glow, lasted for years.

Reply to
PeterC

If you want to make them last forever without dropping the power significantly, use a series L or C to knock 20v off the supply.

Fragility isnt a problem with 100 watters, 200s have much thicker filaments. Its when you get down to 25w that they get rather fragile.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

They'll still break if you hit them with a ski. A rod heater can be fastened to the bottom of the box, a bulb (actually a series pair, as the easiest way) needs you to make some sort of protective enclosure for it.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

You dont want to enclose a lightbulb. A rod or bar over the top is most likely enough in this case. It struck me as a lot quicker and easier than going and finding a tubular heater.

I wouldnt worry too much about series-ing them, just do whats convenient.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

[...]

My Dad had a 'heat box' for his photographic processing chemicals which was just a light bulb inside a wooden frame of low height, with Aluminum plates covering the top & bottom to seal it. You put the trays of developer, fixer etc. on the top and it kept them at (approx) the right temperature.

He must have built it in the fifties and it was still going strong with the same lightbulb thirty years later.

I agree probably not for this application though.

J^n

Reply to
jkn

Not sure if it helps or not, but checkout.

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