While some of the floorboards in our bathroom were up (to replace heating pipes), her indoors decided to put a foot though the plasterboard (several warning were to no avail of course). There is now a section of plasterboard (about 10" across) hanging down in pieces.Pushing it back into place is no good as there are missing bits. Is there any way to repiar such a hole or do I need to get the whole section replaced?
Is plasterboard just nailed to the joists? Looks like need to get a proper plasterer in to do this - but like to know how its fixed. tia
He's going to have to tidy and square the edges up as much as possible. If he screws wooden lips to the upper edge of the existing, solid, board, he can then screw a new section of board to that, but it would be better to go to the joists if possible. It's not a huge job.
You'll probably want a plasterer to skim it ready for repainting.
Plasterboard screws these days, used to be big flat headed nails :)
So to repair, you'd cut out a rectangle half way over both joists.
Screw new PB to the joists. Support teh other 2 edges of the join - easiest way would be to glue 2" wide strip of PB over the back of the join if accessible from above.
Then there comes the matter of repairing the finish....
Large closed-backed holes can be filled with plaster, artex, sand & cement, sand & lime, filler or anything similar. Limit the depth of each layer, le tting each set before applying the next. Max depth per layer depends on the filler used.
Large open backed holes require fitting with plasterboard before filling. O ften a piece a little bigger than the hole is cut, inserted at 90 degrees a nd turned round to block the hole. Its then held in place before filling so mehow, eg
string and weight for ceilings tape, doesn't always work though bit of filler round the edges iron wire etc
Another way to use PB in the hole is to cut it to fit entirely within the h ole, fit it in just very slightly recessed, using wedges of cardboard/wood/ paper to hold it temporarily, and fill around the edges to stick it in plac e, pressing the filler in deep. Remove wedges when set and complete the fil ling.
Another option is to fit some wooden sticks behind the hole that will suppo rt the new plasterboard piece. The sticks are either glued to the existing plasterboard, screwed to the existing plasterboard, or for a much stronger result fixed to the existing woodwork behind the plaster. The new plasterbo ard can then be screwed to the wood."
Fill hole with squirty foam. Use something like eg an offcut of vinyl propped up on a pole to stop the foam falling out of the hole.
Rake out the foam to a couple of mm below the surface, apply some PVA with a brush working it intil the cellular structure of the foam. Apply filler with a filling knife. Allow to set and sand if necessary.
Yup, had a similar issue some years ago due to a slow water leak at the cold water tank ta. It obviously was a bit soggy and had to dry, but the cure was the same, back to the joists, then insert cut piece of plaster board and secure, and fill cracks then in mycase we tiled it. It is a very dusty and messy job, and you will be taking up the dust for the next few months, i'm sure! Brian
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