Height of Boiler on Wall

[TheScullster]

Hi all

Can anyone give me an idea of "standard" height for new boiler on wall please (ie height above 900 worktop)? The boiler proposed is 600 casing height. The ceiling height is 2250. Yes I know this may vary slightly depending on kitchen range selected - haven't got that far yet! I am looking at flueing options and the current location has a ceiling joist above the boiler flue outlet. This would lead to unsightly dog leg so I think I need to reposition boiler. A good idea of usual wall cupboard height would help with all this.

TIA

Phil

[Christian McArdle]

Most standard kitchens are designed with 500mm between the BOTTOM of the worktop and the bottom of the wall unit. i.e. with a 40mm worktop, there should be 460mm between the worktop and wall unit.

Christian.

[JoeJoe]

I tend to fit them so that their top is horizontally aligned with the top of the wall units - I found this to look best. Remember to take the space for the flue above the boiler into account as your ceiling is a little lower than usual.

As already mentioned, I tend to leave 46cm from top of worktop to bottom of wall units. Just enough for 3 x 15cm (6") tiles, and 1cm to make sure no cuts will be required...

HTH.

J.

[Christian McArdle]

Most boilers these days are happy with no compartment ventilation. You should position the boiler so that a fake kitchen unit can conceal it. Choose a boiler model that is no deeper than your proposed kitchen wall unit and calculate in advance where the units will butt up.

Alternatively, save yourself the valuable wall space in the kitchen and stick the boiler in the loft.

Christian.

[Andy Hall]

Another thing that can help with the flue arrangements is if the model chosen has the option of using a pair of 50mm muPVC waste pipes as air supply and flue.

Quite a number now do via the use of an adaptor that plugs into the concentric socket on the top.

This may just save a bit of height and will almost certainly be easier for installation.

The adaptor will probably cost about the same as a flue extension in full size and the waste pipe is very inexpensive.

[TheScullster]

"JoeJoe" wrote

Thanks JoeJoe

But what makes up the extra 1cm?

Phil

[Stuart Noble]

But make sure the cross piece of the carcass doesn't interfere with removal of the boiler casing. There seemed to be acres of space for next door's Vaillant combi in an Ikea larder but the engineer couldn't get to the back of the boiler to check something or another. Not easy removing those cross pieces without wrecking them.

[Christian McArdle]

I would not fully assemble the carcass if used around a boiler. Don't fit the cross pieces at all, or the rear panel. Only fit the bottom of the unit and the top of the unit (even that only if it doesn't interfere with casing removal). The side pieces can be bolted directly onto the adjacent units.

Christian.

[JoeJoe]

Nothing... You will not see the gap left under the wall unit, and by leaving it you make sure that you will not have to cut any of the top row tiles.

455mm is fine as well, but the chance of the height of the wall units droping by 5mm over x number of units is pretty high.

Hope that makes sense.

PS: whenever possible I do try to conseal inside a tall unit (called a fridge one if buying from MFI/Howdens/B&Q and the like) as alreay mentioned in other replies. My rule still applies though - flash with the top of the wall units.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Or like Keston, which just have two 50mm muPVC connections directly on the top of the boiler.