Header tank ballcock repair [Novice]

[News]

Hello experts (and others)...

The valve supplying water to my header tank appears to be faulty. Constant dripping at the end furthest from the ballcock gradually fills the tank which subsequently drips out of the overflow. This *only* happens when the central heating is off, ie. gradual overnight build up stopping at 7:00 when the heating comes on.

The water level in the tank drops approx 3cms when the heating is active and therefore stops overflowing.

My questions are; Is it worth disassembing/cleaning the current ballvalve thingy? Or more likely that I'll need a complete new ballcock assembly? Can a non-plumber (me) fit this easily if required?

As warmer weather approaches the heating will be on a lot less and increase the problem.

Any advice on next steps/cheap solutions would be appreciated. TIA

[NoSpamThanks]

In message , News writes

I'm one of the others.

I think that is more properly called a warning pipe - it is there to let you know something is wrong.

I can't explain that.

No - the price of a complete replacement is in single figures of pounds even if you buy it in a DIY shed. You'll also need to look at how it is attached to the water supply - if it's a compression fitting you'll be well advised to use a new olive to ensure a good seal. They cost pence.

Well, I just did mine so I'm sure you can do yours. :)

Better to fix it anyway.

Hmmm,

seems to be down atm ?

[Set Square]

Removing, dismantling, cleaning, fitting new washer etc. - is well within the scope of any competent d-i-y-er. Don't forget to turn off the water supply to the ballvalve before you start!

Having said that, your symptoms are somewhat worrying! Which header tank are you talking about - the large one which feeds the hot water supply, or the small feed and expansion tank for the heating system?

I can't explain why the level would *drop* in either of them when the heating is on - if anything, it should *rise* due to expansion!

If it's the small tank, the water level should never be *anywhere near* the overflow. It only requires a couple of inches in the bottom - enough to ensure that water rather than air is fed into the heating system. Once you have made sure that the valve shuts off the flow properly when the ball floats up, bend the arm a bit to achieve the correct level.

[Dave Plowman]

You can buy repair kits from the sheds if a recent type - older ones simply have a normal washer. They are extremely simple in operation - strip it down to see how it works. All you usually have to do is remove a split pin. It also sounds like the water level is high - it only needs a few inches in the bottom of the tank. You alter this by bending the arm holding the ball.

[News]

Ok, now I'm worried! :+/ It's the large tank that's slowly filling up and overflowing...although the small one is also extremely full, very close to overflow although a thick surface scum suggests that level hasn't changed a gread deal recently.

More worried now.

Thanks, I'll try that.

[Dave Baker]

The large tank just supplies cold water to the bathroom and immersion cylinder. It should have nothing to do with the central heating system. It could be that the immersion cylinder expands a bit when the heating is on and takes some water from the header tank but I'd be surprised if that accounted for 3cm.

Anyway, first step is to just replace the washer in the ball c*ck. A few pence from any shed and easy for even a novice to fit. A big adjustable spanner is all you need.

Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish, unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.

[Dave Plowman]

I did one of mine recently - it's about 15 years old. All you had to do was to remove the split pin which is the lever pivot, remove the lever, and the 'washer' was a sort of tube affair that the sheds sold.