Have I installed new soil pipe branch too high??

Good evening I would appreciate any advice as I am a bit worried. I have just installed a new soil stack and joined to drains. All ok there. I have made a hole into a first floor room and installed a spur from the soil stack ready for a bathroom conversion.
The thing I am worried about is whether I have installed the junction too high for any new toilet as the pipe coming into the house is about 190-200mm from the floor (bottom edge of 110ml pipe).
Could any one please tell me if this will be ok or have I made a rather large mess because obviously, the waste cannot flow uphill and I didn't know if there were any toilets with the waste pipe exit higher than this.
I thought I had covered all the bases and evrything went seemingly well. I will be gutted if I have to re-do it.
Many thanks
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Monkey Brains wrote:

Hmm, first buy your bog. You will have to look around. What's so hard about shortening the stack (have you used push-fit)? You could always mount the lavatory bowl on a block of something, I suppose, as long as the overall height remained reasonable.
You'd better prepare for a lot of snotty comments from the bloody pen-pushing brigade, too.
________________________________________________________________ Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
and if you haven't yet bought your toilet pan, how about going for a wall-hung one?
Just a thought, but that would allow you a subtle height adjustment...
On Thu, 3 Jul 2003 11:34:01 -0400, "jerrybuilt "

James
For email, use snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
James Eddison wrote:

However, toilet pans are the height there are for very good ergonomic reasons. 3" higher could be quite uncomfortable for someone with even average leg lengths, never mind a child. Its my guess that if you look at the install instructions for any make of toilet pan they will specify more or less the same outlet height.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks all for your prompt replies I have used push fit, it just means having to make the hole bigger and lowering the branch.....does anyone know what the best thing would be to fill the void in a solid 9 inch brick wall?? I have been thinking of expanding foam..but the hole will probably be too big.
I'm going to bed to cry now....I guess this how we all learn..
Many thanks
Chris :)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Oh well !!! If yea didnea make mistakes you wouldnea learn anything. :-)) Filling the hole shouldn't be a big problem Chris, with that size pipe going through it. Just fill most of the void up with the stuff you took out and fill over the surfaces with some sand and cement mix. Well that's what everybody else does, don't they ?
For a bit of information, you need at least 40mm drop from the outlet of the WC to the bend outside to take solid waste away properly. The standard in "P" Trap WC outlet height is around, very close to, 120mm from the floor, but they do sell adjustable connectors to take up any slight differences, so don't panic.
Sleep it off. You'll feel better in the morning. :-))
--
BigWallop

http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Err, a few bricks is the obvious one.
If you used expanding foam then you would have to cover the outside of the foam at least with something anyway.
--
Chris French, Leeds

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My philosophy is "why pay someone good money to do a half-arsed job...when I'm perfectly capable of doing a half-arsed job myself!!!"
Pete
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You could always raise the floor in the bathroom by 70mm. This could be useful for flush mounting shower trays and running concealed pipes if the step into the room isn't a problem (i.e. there's already a step or change of level). Just a thought, anyway. It's almost certainly quicker to redo the hole, though, particularly if you've got spare matching bricks.
Christian.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Monkey Brains wrote:

spur
junction
about
and
Surely when you applied for planning permission you were told that the soil stack has to be inside, so any changes in branch off will be easy?
I think you will find that lower is better in this case, 170mm to the centre of the pipe from the floor is the maximum for an average toilet, and that is only if the toilet is right next to where the pipe comes in, if on the other side of the room then it should be lower to ensure a cleansing flow of the pipe.
MrCheerful
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
MrCheerful wrote:

Who says it has to be inside? I've seen loads of sealed stacks outside.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This is not true - rules were outside only, then changed to inside only .. to prevent freezing etc. .. but for many years it is optional, inside or out.
Rick
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I know some have an inside stack - but who would want it in the dinning room just as you were at lunch.We have a friend with one inside and you can hear if it is solid or liquid going down - no thanks!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@fanhhnaf.com wrote:

I understood it is a requirement now to have an inside stack on new builds and if installing a new (not replacement) stack.
MrCheerful
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Monkey Brains wrote:

Get your bog before you re-position the branch! Temporarily hook up the waste to the trap with a pan connector before you brick up. If it's a solid wall the mortar is very soft, right? So you can cut bricks out by raking out the mortar, do any shaping necessary, and put them back. Use new ones inside if you're a bit short of originals for the outside, and use the inside ones outside to match. Ram ordinary mortar in around the pipe with a bit of stick or something to seal it.
________________________________________________________________ Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.