Hanging china cistern on threaded studs?

[Tim W]

Hi,

Probbaly worrying over nothing - but thought it best to check.

I have a ceramic (well, I'm not sure, but it's the type that isn't iron and isn't plastic) bog cistern.

I have set M8 stainless studding into the wall to hang it on (wall is celcon and I do not trust plugs).

Before I finally hang it - is the china likely to object to bearing on the sharp threads on the studs (like stress points introducing cracks - that sort of thing...)? Normal people hang cisterns on screws so chances are the cistern bears on the smooth shank.

The studs are a good fit in the holes so not much space to sleeve it.

That leaves filing the threads off or wrapping a bit of tape around which will probably just cut through anyway.

Or just hanging it as is.

[Dave Liquorice]

This isn't a close coupled bog cistern then? With close coupled most of the weight goes through the base and down onto the pan. The fixings are just hold it back against the wall.

Assuming the weight is being taken by the fixings, I'd be a little concrened as well. I'd sleeve the threaded part with something.

Room to get a bit of split and trimmed plastic pipe in?

[Cicero]

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If it's not close-coupled (weight on lavatory pan) you could wind some copper wire into the threads, leaving it a little proud so that it will adapt itself to any movement.

Cic.

[TheScullster]

"Tim W" wrote

Does the cistern not coming with fixings/instructions? I have a 1970s build place and the original toilets had separate pottery cisterns. They were mounted on an "L" shape bracket, the leg of which went up behind the cistern IYSWIM. So the fixing holes at the back (that you are referring to) were simply to stop the thing tipping forward not take the weight of the cistern full of water. If you can do something similar (discretely) then that's what I would recommend. I have retained one cistern of that ilk, but boxed it in for attachment of a back-to-wall pan.

HTH

Phil

[Andrew Gabriel]

Often not fixed to the wall at all. They usually fix firmly to the pan.

Loo cistern fixing screws have plastic shields between the metal and the porcelain (a bit like mirror fixing screws).

[brass monkey]

I'd also nip the nuts up against placcy or lead washers.

[Tim W]

Cicero wibbled on Monday 12 October 2009 16:35

[General reply to thread too]

No - it's high level (sorry, should have said).

The supplied fixings were crap and totally unsuitable for my celcon block wall with 3/4" plaster.

I contemplated using M6 or M8 studding, but the M6 (being A2 stainless) was a little on the flexible side. As it was, I had to diamond file the cistern holes slightly - one was definately not square on.

Regarding brackets - there are ornamental brackets supplied, but the destructions say that they are decorative only and the load bearing fixing must be made via the two holes up top *only*. In fact I probably won't bother with the decorative brackets - they are a bit naff.

OK - concensus seems to be that bearing it on the threads is a bad idea - I knew this could be the case when I started, but I really had to go with the M8 studs.

I like the copper wire idea. That's one option. There isn't much slop - about 1mm total, so perhaps 1/2mm all round if it's centred.

The other approach I had considered is to dremel the threads off on the bearing part and sleeve that - perhaps with some heatshrink - it will still be slightly soft after setting - well softer than the ceramic.

I have to plan this slightly though as I need to lean the cistern forward slightly to line up the bottom pipe, so I'll have to hang it and mark the stud.

Thanks to everyone for your thoughts :)

Cheers

[1501]

Try embedding the copper wire in some decent epoxy and slip the cistern over the studs whilst the epoxy goes off. It might spread the load a little further.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've come across several close coupled cistern that dont even have fixing holes for the wall.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Oh, its not ideal, but it should be OK.

Easy solution is to smear back end of studs with silicone, put cistern on and screw block to wall to support it till silicone sets, then use nuts to tigthen down.

Inbuilt rubber grommet.

[Steve Walker]

two or three layers of heatshrink will provide an excellent surface

[Jules]

Option 3 would be to enlarge the holes in the cistern, then sleeve - I'm not sure how practical that is, but just throwing it out there for completeness' sake :-)

Lots of helium-filled balloons?

[NT]

I've little idea if its an issue, but you can always wipe the rod with epoxy to get an even surface

NT

[Dave Liquorice]

I like that one as well or the expoy version. Though I'd let the epoxy set before mounting the cistern on the studs. You might want to remove it at some point and you don't want it stuck on the studs with epoxy (or silicone).

[Usenet Nutter]

I got a packet of them from Screwfix and used a couple to fix my toilet pan to the floor ....they are a small tube with a countersunk end and fit in the holes and the screw goes in to it ..Fischer make them