Hanging a chandelier?

Two chandeliers, one small, one medium. At present they're on chains from a screwed in hook plate, with a tin bucket rose over chocolate block.

For easier cleaning I'd like to replace this with a slide-in connector. Klik do their well-known one, there's also the Lewden ceiling maestro that TLC sell.

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Klik is less than convincing as a mechanical connector, but it's cheap (couple of quid from Direct Electrical).

The Lewden looks like a sensible dovetail wedge, but it's twelve quid each.

Both claim 5kg load, which I understand is a regulatory limit on flexible cord suspension. Klik then claim 10kg limit on the fitting itself, or 15kg for the Lewden with a hook and chain. I find the Klik hard to believe here - that's quite a weight for the tiny clips, and how do you support any weight _except_ by the cord alone?

Any hands-on experience of either of them? Thanks.

Reply to
Andy Dingley
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sell.http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/...>> The Klik is less than convincing as a mechanical connector, but it's

Decent mechanical suspension , hook plate, seperate from electrical connector, plug in rose, they are OK for a pendant with a shade , beyond that risk of a Phantom of The Opera incident becomes bigger....

For crystal Sparkle Plenty, John Lewis stock it

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Reply to
Adam Aglionby

Just don't do this:

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We have a fancy one in the livingroom - it's held up by 2 independant loops of 220lb nylon cord which we use to lower it from the room above... (Suspened from hooks screwed into a large addition to the joist which was used to support the old gas lighting - well, I'm suspecting that's what it was for as there is some old piping nearby and a few scorch marks surrounding it)

Gordon

Reply to
Gordon Henderson

I've used the Klik one a lot here, so I'm familiar with it in real life. I wouldn't trust 5kg to it, unless I was using a safety chain or some other proper method of support.

Used a Lewden years ago and it was great. That *did* support a heavy weight and I had complete confidence in it.

I think you should bite the bullet and cough up! :-)

Reply to
Bob Eager

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>>> The Klik is less than convincing as a mechanical connector, but it's

That has to be one of the funniest things I've ever seem :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

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> The Klik is less than convincing as a mechanical connector, but it's

Errrm. I do have experience of dropping a customers chadelier once, thankfully only & B&Q jobbby, still cost me £80 to replace it :-(

If you can mechanically fix the chandelier & use one of these for the power?

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

On 22 Nov, 10:55, "The Medway Handyman"

Trouble is they're too long to fit inside a rose. I was considering a hook inside a rose, but then I'd maybe use the Klik as simply a connector.

I'll probably buy the Lewdens.

Thanks for the Sparkle Plenty tip too. Good to see you can it in 40 gallon drums, if you're the Duke of something.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Use a proper mechanical hook/chain/rope for the weight. Use a Klik ceiling rose for the power.

The klik ceiling rose will not sit flat on a BESA box (it rocks). Klik seem to need their surface backbox or perhaps a BESA box the other side of the plasterboard.

You can get coloured cotton covered antique style cable if appropriate on Ebay etc quite cheaply.

Reply to
js.b1

Just dug a Lewden & Klik ceiling rose out of the shed.

Klik - Fabric or wickerwork lampshades Many cord grips do not distribute the load evenly on the sheath, you get plastic flow over time with the result that the copper becomes the real strain relief until the fine flex strands fracture. Seen it many times with erupted insulation and noisy arc developing. If the fitting is subject to tall people, people stretching their arms or airflow in particular it is vulnerable.

Lewden - Chain capability makes the difference Subject to weight and suitable joist blocking for support.

The problem is many chandeliers weigh a fair bit and some people fit them relatively low over tables.

The old method was a blocked joist, good chain or tube with rosejoint. The old method was also clear vinyl insulated "bell wire" despite class-1 fittings - cracked insulation waiting to bite the bulb changer. The fitting also has to withstand bulb changing loads - a swinging fitting with someone hanging on the end of it (at least those that unplug reduce that risk!).

Reply to
js.b1

In message , Andy Dingley writes

OK - who's going to be the first to post a fools and horses link ?

Reply to
geoff

In message , Gordon Henderson writes

Reply to
geoff

Gordon. 6 hours ago.

The wonders of the internet!

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ

You could just find an inconspicuous power connector for a flex-flex connection - something like an XLR-style power connector would be fairly tubularly thin

Owain

Reply to
Owain

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