GU10 v MR16 for ceiling lighting

Considering how best to update our living room (5.5m x 3.6m = 18ft x

12ft) lighting. Currently it is lit by 3 x 60W R80 semi-recessed adjustable-aim spotlights. R80 seems to have reached the end of their shop-stocking life & in any case haven't been particularly reliable, hence what next?

A quick scan the Screwfix catalog indicates that the GU10 (240v) & MR16 (12v) (+?MR11) seem to be the only contenders (excluding LEDs which maybe need more development time).

What are the pros & cons?

How do you assess how many units are needed & where to place them in the ceiling to obtain a good spread of light?

What do the letters & numbers mean - eg MR11 v MR16?

Any advice, esp experiences of anyone doing a similar job, would be most appreciated.

TIA

Reply to
jim
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Mains halogens (GU10) have notoriously thin/fragile filaments and they will fail with monotonous regularity if there is any movement in the ceiling from people traipsing about upstairs.

They have different beam angles from quite wide (60deg) to narrow (12deg) and different powers 20W, 35W, 50W, etc.

You used to be able to get either open or glass-fronted, but mostly only glass-fronted lamps are available.

It's not so easy to answer your question regarding placement and spread and the best thing for you to do is take the opportunity to observe what others have done and see the effect created.

MR is the type of lamp-base/form and the number represents the nominal diameter of the lamp in eighths of an inch. MR16 is the "standard" MR11 lamps are more difficult to get hold of.

You need transformers to convert from 240V to 12V. You can simply add up the wattages of the lamps to match the capability of the transformer.

E.g. a 20W to 60W transformer could do:

1 x 20W lamp, or 2 x 20W, or 3 x 20W, or 1 x 50W, or 1 x 35W and 1 x 20W

You need to keep the cables from the output side of the transformers as short as possbible (i.e. don't extend the output lead fitted).

Reply to
Dave Osborne

GU10s are for the pros to con the general populace...

If your a developer knocking up flats by the dozen theres a small saving per point using GU10 over low voltage, no trafo and wiring slightly quicker.

GU10s have horrfic efficiency lifespan and beam control.

LV is the real thing with good efficiency, excellent lifespan and presion beam control.

Ahhh, spread of light isn`t really reflector spotlites thing, trying to ends up with loads of intense pools of light to try and generate spread.

Feature a few of items, pictures or fireplace object on table, doorways, put in adjustable, eyeball or similar, LV spots to light these from an angle, fit a dimmer switch.

Pull the skirtings off and run a second or more lighting circuit to

2A sockets around walls, use combination of table and fllor and desk lamps to give more light where it is needed, fit dimmer.

Multiple Reflector, though heard other explanantions.

The number is diameter in 1/8s of an inch MR16 is 2" MR11 is 1 3/8" , MR8 1"

Look at places you like and try and take some tips from them , read some glossy mags and coffee table books.

Cheers Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

GU10s are for the pros to con the general populace...

If your a developer knocking up flats by the dozen theres a small saving per point using GU10 over low voltage, no trafo and wiring slightly quicker.

GU10s have horrfic efficiency lifespan and beam control.

LV is the real thing with good efficiency, excellent lifespan and presion beam control.

Ahhh, spread of light isn`t really reflector spotlites thing, trying to ends up with loads of intense pools of light to try and generate spread.

Feature a few of items, pictures or fireplace object on table, doorways, put in adjustable, eyeball or similar, LV spots to light these from an angle, fit a dimmer switch.

Pull the skirtings off and run a second or more lighting circuit to

2A sockets around walls, use combination of table and fllor and desk lamps to give more light where it is needed, fit dimmer.

Multiple Reflector, though heard other explanantions.

The number is diameter in 1/8s of an inch MR16 is 2" MR11 is 1 3/8" , MR8 1"

Look at places you like and try and take some tips from them , read some glossy mags and coffee table books.

Cheers Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

If you were otherwise happy with them, consider fitting GE Genura compact fluorescents (23W R80). These are flood lamps (very wide angle) rather than spotlamps, and equivalent power rating is over 100W, so they will light the room much better than your 60W R80's. Do check your fittings really are R80's and not R63's though (60W is more common as an R63). Other issues are that the GE Genura is slightly longer than an R80 - this usually doesn't matter, but there may be some fittings where it does. They have a warm up time of a minute or so, and unfortunately they are expensive (usually just under £20), but providing the fitting is well ventilated and not enclosed, they will last a very long time. (They don't wear out like normal CFLs, and you can switch them on/off as often as you like without shortening their life). You can find them in B&Q. Suggest you buy one to try in your existing fittings initially, if you decide to go this route.

Whilst these R80's fitted with wide angle lamps can provide good general lighting, neither GU10 nor MR16 can in my view, and I think you'll be disappointed after switching to minature spotlamps.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Low voltage every time, as explained already.

You can also put CFLs in R80 fittings, the fitting size restricts which ones but tesco's minispirals work well (avoid the daylight ones though). In some cases you'll want to paint the fitting interior white, and/or add some topup lighting.

NT

Reply to
NT

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