Greenhouse Heaters - Gas or Electric - Which is best?

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You think he should have used a wet-lining box?

Mary

Reply to
Mary Fisher

... and everyone knows how bad water is for plants ...

Reply to
Rob Morley

Mike wrote: >>> > I'm thinking of running electric to my greenhouse how do you get a >>> > double socket to stick to glass? >> Well duh. >> You drill a square hole in the glass and use a dry-lining box > OH MY GOD you will now be lambasted for giving wrong and misleading > and dangerous information. Go get him owners. Where have you come > from? Gardenbanter? ;-)

I'm sorry; here's the corrected version:

WEARING APPROPRIATE EYE PROTECTION, drill a square hole ...

Owain

Reply to
Owain

electric is the most expensive of all options. If you use electric ensure its on an rcd, or for a permanent install, an rcbo for each circuit. Electrics in greenhouses are different to electrics in the house, and leakages due to water, damp, bugs and dirt are to be expected. Use toughened glass bulbs (eg PAR38), enclosed fittings, or preferably fl/cfl. GLS and halogen bulbs are liable to shatter.

Bottled gas works well and is pretty safe. With 2 cylinders and a changeover valve you can ensure it doesnt freeze now and then and you dont waste gas.

Paraffin is the cheapest, but isnt really safe. CO ouput is something they do unless you keep a proper eye on them at all times, a wick that isnt kept trimmed and shaped will produce CO. They can get knocked over. Nearly all are spill proof but if you screwed the cap on askew it wont be, and there are heaters that arent spill proof. Daytime ventilation before entering the greenhouse is good practice with paraffin. When these heaters were used in houses, deaths occurred.

The 2 other options are solar thermal and insulation. A layer of polythene of bubble wrap will reduce heat loss day and night, and an external sheet of silvered mylar can reflect more heat and light in during the day. Raising daytime temp increases the night time minimum, more so if youve got insulation.

Directing central heating boiler exhaust into the greenhouse is an effective option rarely used, and is as safe as portable gas heating. Might not be very effective if youve got a 95% efficient boiler though.

Controlled house ventilation with the exhaust to the greenhouse is one last option.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

electric is the most expensive of all options. If you use electric ensure its on an rcd, or for a permanent install, an rcbo for each circuit. Electrics in greenhouses are different to electrics in the house, and leakages due to water, damp, bugs and dirt are to be expected. Use toughened glass bulbs (eg PAR38), enclosed fittings, or preferably fl/cfl. GLS and halogen bulbs are liable to shatter.

Bottled gas works well and is pretty safe. With 2 cylinders and a changeover valve you can ensure it doesnt freeze now and then and you dont waste gas.

Paraffin is the cheapest, but isnt really safe. CO ouput is something they do unless you keep a proper eye on them at all times, a wick that isnt kept trimmed and shaped will produce CO. They can get knocked over. Nearly all are spill proof but if you screwed the cap on askew it wont be, and there are heaters that arent spill proof. Daytime ventilation before entering the greenhouse is good practice with paraffin. When these heaters were used in houses, deaths occurred.

The 2 other options are solar thermal and insulation. A layer of polythene of bubble wrap will reduce heat loss day and night, and an external sheet of silvered mylar can reflect more heat and light in during the day. Raising daytime temp increases the night time minimum, more so if youve got insulation.

Directing central heating boiler exhaust into the greenhouse is an effective option rarely used, and is as safe as portable gas heating. Might not be very effective if youve got a 95% efficient boiler though.

Controlled house ventilation with the exhaust to the greenhouse is one last option.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

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