Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.
Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?
Thanks Adam
P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control got the same overhaul...
Gorilla is low-foaming compared to some other PUs, but then so are many of the others, intended for carpentry.
OTOH, what use is PU anyway? It's expensive, has a poor shelf life, gives a weak joint, exceptionally bad at gap filling (fills, but weak), needs cleanup afterwards and can't last against vibration or UV exposure.
I use Titebond II for nearly everything, cheap PVA for biscuits, and hot hide for furniture.
and contrary to popualr belief, PU is not waterproof if it stays wet. Its fine if it dries out.
NT
Yup, I second (most of[1]) that.
Not only that, PU is a bugger to get of your hands or clothes if you spill any and are not wearing protective gear. If you really need gap filling, then the only thing that does that with any reliability is epoxy.
[1] Only "most" because I have never tried hide glues, so can't comment.
Balcotan (normal where in no rush, rapid for a 30 min handle-ability) everytime for PU.
Titebond =3D overpriced overhyped PVA stuffed full of tackifiers to make it seem stickier and some yellow dye.
BUT its brittle.
Oddly enough hot glue is actually rather good.
Get a glue gun. dirt cheap. Experiment. Sometimes its useless, sometimes its just the bunny.
otherwise known as aliphatic.
I have a glue gun and hot melt adhesive sticks - but I don't think that is what Andy was referring to. I presume he meant the type of stuff one heats up in a glue pot.
I would agree that hot melt can be handy at times... CPC glue sticks are not bad either.
Depends on which Titebond you are using and what your requirements are. For me, creep resistance is important (stringed musical instruments under continuous tension) so the original Titebond (not to be confused with Titebond Original, which isn't) is perfect.
And hot hide glue for almost everything else. The way it changes state between liquid and solid actually draws the glued faces together so more delicate joints (violin bits etc) can be clamped gently and still reach full strength.
Nick
There are better glues than PVA for creep-resistance, but the bit of Titebond II spec (which I assume is what you mean?) which helps with that is that it is a cross-linked PVA. So are many others, with or without the yellow dye and aliphatic marketing puff. Anything D3 (exterior rated) is a cross-linked PVA.
Titebond is good glue, it's just overhyped as something unique.
Yes. No use for on-site work, but it's fine in a workshop. The trick is to use an electrically heated thermostatic pot, then it's no trouble at all to work with. Its virtue for high-end furniture is a proven ability to dismantle and repair pieces made with it in 50 years or so.
Yes. No use for on-site work, but it's fine in a workshop. The trick is to use an electrically heated thermostatic pot, then it's no trouble at all to work with. Its virtue for high-end furniture is a proven ability to dismantle and repair pieces made with it in 50 years or so.
I remember doing woodwork class in school and they had a pot of heated glue, extremely foul smelling - which I assume comprised of bones etc. Seemed good glue, but not sure if H&S now allow it.
Interesting when we had metalwork classes ... they would happily let us use Oxy-Acetylene welders, lathes, millers, shapers ........ I guess today kids just use a CadCam program and don't touch real kit.
Soldering with bakers fluid probably needs a full risk assessment & HazMat course !
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