Hence the plate vibrates in a very noisy manner. My half baked solution was to put araldite around the bolt heads and covering the plate where it had rusted away. (only a couple of millimeters at the most) However araldite cannot cope with the intense heat of the manifolds.
Would anyone be able to suggest an adhesive that would cope with these very hot conditions? Thanks.
titanium loaded putty
Exhaust putty? (Gun Gum or similar.
Chris
Possibly silicon, I have used for `sealing` the gaskets on a motorbike exhaust. Not sure about the adhesive qualities though but it should be ok for the heat.
In article , SS writes
Agreed, a goop of high temp silicone could damp the rattling as long as there are at least a couple of sound fixings:
Is it really needed for an engineering reason? If not rip it off.
It is is still needed then hit it with a hammer to dent it and change its resonant frequency.
How critical is the plate? If the vehicle's time is short anyway, it might be possible just to ditch it and live without if its job is just to help with under-bonnet heat or to direct heat into the intake to assist with cold-weather conditions, say.
If you can't find a glue that'll work, is there any scope for making some form of metal hold-down straps - attach with sheet-metal screws at the plate end and to some other part of the engine at the other?
Highly bodge-o-rama, yes, but again if it's headed to the scrappy soon anyway...
The surface of a petrol engine exhaust manifold can reach 800 degrees Celcius at motorway speeds.
Only real reason for a heat shield plate on exhaust manifold was for hot air feed to prevent carb icing.
I would try to undo them as they are tapped into cast iron and the carbon content acts as a lube and you maybe able to undo them.
First put some penetrating oil on and let that soak.
Never know you could get lucky.
and start by giving them a medium whack sideways.
Perhaps a bracket could be made to attatch the shield to the nearest available fixing on the engine. The bracket could be made with sheet steel and ideally mig welded or pop riveted to the heat shield.
Alternatively if the heat shield could removed you could perhaps make up another and mount it perhaps in a slightly different position where it can be more securely fixed but at the same time do it's job.
jPeter Hill gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
16yo, '95 - injection. So it's more likely just to be a heat shield due to the exhaust manifold being fairly visible, so at risk of singeing sticky little fingers.
I don't think it will stand the temperature of the manifold on a car. It's fine for use further downstream on an exhaust.
Commonest reason is to provide a "stove" from which to draw warm air to prevent carburetor freezing in cold weather. This can still happen with fuel injection, though it's rather less common. Without it, on cold damp days, you'll find the car will stop after you get up to speed, won't restart until the ice has melted after twenty minutes or so.
I'd wire it on, or make suitable alternative provision using an old dog- food tin.
Which still happens with fuel injection.
On my spitfire it was to prevent the petrol boilingioll did..dripped all over the exhaust pipe..
...and on a car 16 years old it would be Euro 1 compliant and have a cat and presumably fuel injection. Of course if it was single point injection that can still require some heating of the inlet air.
Heat shield plates on exhausts can also protect bodywork, ancillaries and wiring, or they can be there just to tart up the underbonnet view.
"Shit! I've got to go out and get a bloody dog now!"
;-)
Chris
If the plate vibrates, there must be some wiggle room under it. Can you screw a small tapered screw sideways under it to take up that slack?
As I'm sitting at my desk, I'm looking at a paperclip which might be just the thing to bodge it with.
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