My partner has a Gloworm Fuelsaver F Boiler that has developed a proble
in that it doesn't work properly. It comes on and the flame kicks in fo about 5-10 seconds and then goes out. The only way she can get a littl heating or hot water is to leave it programmed on permanently and i will keep firing up for 5-10 seconds over a period of hours.
Does this mean a new boiler is required or is it just the controlle that needs replacing. She cannot really afford a new boiler and put u with this problem since winter 2006. Any help is greatly aprreciated
You may (or may not) remember the British Gas advert for their rip off service contracts where there's an older (= reliable) fitter and a dozy apprentice with their toolkit out playing the role of paramedics.
Mrs. Jones, the homeowner, is looking on very worried. Clearly the heating system has had major trauma (as the Americans would say).
Shortly, the older fitter says: "Mrs. Jones..... it's yer pump!"
Mrs. Jones asks "Will it be all right?" and the fitter smiles and nods.
A very relieved looking Mrs. Jones doesn't realise that the smile is as he thinks about the £150 per annum that she has paid for replacement of a £30 pump.
So here's your opportunity to be a hero.
If the heating and the hot water do follow the correct behaviour as selected by the programmer - i.e. heating when that's selected and HW for that, then the controller and motorised valve should be OK. Otherwise, this would be suspect.
This really leaves the pump. If that has stopped, the behaviour will be as you describe - i.e. short periods of the boiler running then the thermostat stopping it almost immediately because the water is not being circulated.
There are two probable causes:
- Pump has seized. If it has, it may be possible to free the rotor by undoing the large screw in the centre (which is actually a cap), assuming it has one, and turning the rotor with a large screwdriver. If you are lucky this will free it up. It's possible that it has become seized during the summer if not in use (e.g. HW heated by immersion and boiler off) or because some sludge or other crud has become lodged in it. It may be that the rotor bearing is simply knackered. If the pump is as old as the boiler probably is, then the pump may well beyond its useful life. Be prepared that a new pump may be needed. Taking the screw out will release a few drops of water which may well be dirty and sludgy. To avoid withdrawal of hero status and "other things", it would be prudent to put down a plastic sheet and plenty of rags and newspapers.
- Pump over-run thermostat is defective. The pump is run from this so that water keeps circulating after the burner stops. If the thermostat fails, no power to pump
You can diagnose between these by checking that there's power at the pump using a neon tester or meter, or by turning the boiler on wiht the gas off. The pump should be powered at this point and if the case gets hot when the water is cold, you know there is electricity there.
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