There`s been a lot of talk about push-fit fittings lately, and i`m curious - are these used CH installations ? If so, what about CH where the system is under pressure ? (wouldn`t they be likely to pop out ?)
On a new CH install, should I perhaps ask for proper soldered joints rather than (what sounds like) a cheap and nasty half-assed job ?
I think that it's fine if you use good quality fittings, cut the pipe using the recommended cutter and take care in assembly.
Some pipe has markers on it so that you can check that the pipe is fully inserted.
I quite like the JG Speedfit fittings because they have a pipe insert with an O-ring which centres the pipe well and acts as an additional seal. They also have a twist lock at the top of the fitting.
Plastic is not cheap and nasty in material costs - copper fittings are much cheaper. However, there may be some time saving. It is useful to use plastic if you need some flexibility - e.g. threading the pipe through holes in successive joists.
Ask for soldered joints. Far better and the best method of installing pipes. It's track record speaks for itself. Plastic is good in garages where it freezes and threading it through floors, without any joints in the run. Overall it still leaves a lot to be desired, and should only be used in certain situations. DIYers like it because they just push in the joints. The poor sod who buys their houses has to suffer the consequences.
Developers now use plastic on the first fix, so the Tinkers don't steal the copper and cheap labour can juts push in the joints. The second fix is copper where is seen (plastic will put many people off) and fitted by pros.
ON CH systems plastic with an oxygen barriers has to be used. There are two types of pipe, so the right type has to be used.
Plastic pipes tend to be fine on cold water (water mains are plastic) and only when well supported (a mains pipes is supported all around by earth). It is when it is used on hot supplies that problems tend to occur. The constant expansion and contraction can temporary dislodge joints that reseal on cooling. On long runs it is best to support plastic on a wooden baton as was lead pipes.
Why do you feel the need to specify how a job is done on advice from a bunch of strangers? ;-)
If you tell a contractor to use specific materials or jointing methods - against his advice - and there is a problem, he'd be perfectly entitled to refuse to fix it at his expense.
IMHO, the same still applies. If he's experienced he should have a working knowledge of the various types of pipe and fittings, and will use the one which suits him best. They all have their pros and cons. But good ol' copper using capillary fittings is still the cheapest *and* best IMHO - if you have the skills to use it as I'd expect a pro to. For occasional DIY plumbing, push fits are ideal, but costly.
In the right place the pushfit fittings are cost effective - you quite a few less but over all the cost of the materials is higher but this is greatly offset by the speed of installation.
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