Gas fire removal - help

[oleum]

I want to remove my gas fire and would like advice on how the gas fire isolation valve works. Theres an 8mm compression fitting leading to the gas fire from the isolation valve.

Theres a screw fitting on the isolation valve and underneath it there is a second screw like a giant grub screw. Does this go all the way in to seal off the supply of does it just go part way in to seal off the outlet to the 8mm pipe?

If its screwed in some way it appears to have sealed the gas outlet but screwing in further releases gas. Not wishing to cause a larger leak I haven't screwed it all the way in but I suspect it is just gas from the short length of 8mm pipe being released.

Any advice on how to seal this off so I can get the old fire out. I am not planning on installing another or I'd get a fitter out.

Thanks in advance

Nick

[oleum]

I want to remove my gas fire and would like advice on how the gas fire isolation valve works. Theres an 8mm compression fitting leading to the gas fire from the isolation valve.

Theres a screw fitting on the isolation valve and underneath it there is a second screw like a giant grub screw. Does this go all the way in to seal off the supply of does it just go part way in to seal off the outlet to the 8mm pipe?

If its screwed in some way it appears to have sealed the gas outlet but screwing in further releases gas. Not wishing to cause a larger leak I haven't screwed it all the way in but I suspect it is just gas from the short length of 8mm pipe being released.

Any advice on how to seal this off so I can get the old fire out. I am not planning on installing another or I'd get a fitter out.

Thanks in advance

Nick

[oleum]

I want to remove my gas fire and would like advice on how the gas fire isolation valve works. Theres an 8mm compression fitting leading to the gas fire from the isolation valve.

Theres a screw fitting on the isolation valve and underneath it there is a second screw like a giant grub screw. Does this go all the way in to seal off the supply of does it just go part way in to seal off the outlet to the 8mm pipe?

If its screwed in some way it appears to have sealed the gas outlet but screwing in further releases gas. Not wishing to cause a larger leak I haven't screwed it all the way in but I suspect it is just gas from the short length of 8mm pipe being released.

Any advice on how to seal this off so I can get the old fire out. I am not planning on installing another or I'd get a fitter out.

Thanks in advance

Nick

[Lurch]

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 19:57:48 +0100, oleum strung together this:

We're a bit send button happy today aren't we? Unscrew the top, screw the inner screw all the way down. Re-fit top screw. Gas is now isolated to the appliance.

[Ed Sirett]

1) You actually have to screw the plug all the way in. Yes it does let a small amount by as you do this. 2) Competant and Incompetant don't come in all or nothing quantities. However this is fairly basic stuff. If you are at this level of experience, IMHO might well need some help. 3) after removing the compression fitting, The open end MUST be plugged. a 1/4" BSP taper plug + boss white will be fine.

[Arthur]

Tell him again please.

Arthur.

[fred]

In article , Lurch writes

Was going to give the same, same, same advice, but thought the pedestal should have a taped plug screwed into the outlet for a permanent disconnection - couldn't remember the size - 1/4" BSP?

[Lurch]

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 20:34:02 GMT, fred strung together this:

Thought about that afterwards! I can't remember what size it is either, but a quick trip to the plumbers merchants with the old nut in hand will probably get the OP an equivalant blank one.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Why? That doesn't seem to achieve anything as you could just take the cover screw and grub screw right out and have a large gas leak.

If it's not going to be used again, I would remove the restrictor and seal off the pipework under the floor. Depending on positioning, it's otherwise just waiting for something/someone to have an accident and snap it off.

[Lurch]

On 30 Aug 2004 23:58:47 GMT, [e-mail] (Andrew Gabriel) strung together this:

You could also undo the nut on the gas meter union and have an even bigger gas leak, your point being?

[oleum]

Thanks to all 3 of you that gave replies. In actual fact my definition of being competent is able to safely complete any job. This is why I asked advice and now having the information to hand I feel able to competently do this.

Despite my lack of experience as a gas fitter (none obviously) I have a scientific/engineering background and spent several years working with hydrogen based systems so I'm pretty familiar with leak testing for flammable gases and 1/4" SS gas pipework. This does not extend to the kind of fitting I have so I asked advice, many thanks for that.

I probably wouldn't have bothered plugging the outlet pipe but I will now. As far as removal to floor level , the positioning of the isolation elbow is in a pretty inacessible place so I don't fear for it getting knocked off. Plus, at some time in the future there may be the need to install another fire, which will be a lot easier for the fitter if it's left in place.

Thanks again, I really *do* appreciate the advice.

Nick

[Andrew Gabriel]

It would seem to be adequately sealed off if you need a tool to unseal it (and not for example if you had only a finger- operated gas c*ck protecting an open-ended pipe against escape).

[Lurch]

On 31 Aug 2004 09:13:00 GMT, [e-mail] (Andrew Gabriel) strung together this:

Which in this instance you do, so your point is invalid.

[Andrew Gabriel]

I think you've misread something I said, as we're making the same point.

[Ed Sirett]

I suppose you guys are right that an unplugged restrictor elbow does not constitute a live open pipe.

Anyway it's good to plug it to stop dirt getting in it.