Garage to workshop conversion: cladding the ceiling

On reflection, I agree. I'm going to use 300mm uPVC cladding, which gives the same effect as the 100mm t&g I originally considered, but works out cheaper and will (hopefuly) go up quicker.

50mm on the walls, push-fit between tiling battens screwed to the concrete sectional sides and then clad with OSB, 25mm on the ceiling, supported by tiling battens screwed to the original cross-member joists. With two secondhand (and extremely cheap) uPVC windows and an ex-display Compton garage door, I'm quite pleased with the results so far.

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules
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You're right, of course. My experience with the stuff was so unpleasant that I seem to have blocked out my memory of the details...

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules

;-) yup, when it goes pear shaped, things can end up seriously sticky and covered in the stuff in no time!

Being sparing is the key usually

Reply to
John Rumm

Utterly, yes. A recent convert to gun-type foam, I've found it invaluable. A big plus is the economy of use - a hand-held can tends to belt it out quickly, but the gun can be precisely controlled to lay down a bead of just enough. I reckon I'm getting twice as much use out of a can with the gun.

Reply to
grimly4

Yes, that's what I've been told, though I've never tried it. Nice to have the confirmation: thanks for the comment.

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules

Halfway through the job and it's clear that I was mistaken. The wider panels are far trickier to handle above head height than the 100mm ones and are also considerably heavier than I thought they'd be. Putting the adhesive (Sticks Like...) onto them before offering them up only makes things worse. I wish now that I'd used the more expensive but far more ceiling-cladding-friendly narrower lengths.

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules

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