Garage shelving

I need some shelving in my garage for accumulated 'useful stuff'.

The space is 8' x 2' 8" and it can be fixed to the walls on one long and three short sides so I'm thinking of 3" x 2" timber framing with a vertical 3" x 2" mid support along the front. Is all that adequate, or heavier than need be?

The shelving will be chipboard. Is 12mm ok, or do I need to go to 18mm?

Reply to
F
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I've always found chipboard sags. Try a timber merchant, explain what you want and you may be able to get some decent boards which will work much better. B&Q uses to do some pine shelves which were relatively cheap but did the job.

Paul DS.

Reply to
Paul D Smith

Ply then? If so, how thick?

Reply to
F

2x2 is fine. A 4' long run is a lot though, I'd add another upright
12mm needs support all round, and will still sag. I'd go for 18mm flooring grade. No need for osb/ply unless you're going to put car engines on it, or unless its liable to get wet.

NT

Reply to
NT

I used thick mdf for the shelves in my garage and they're surprisingly sag-free, on spurs. Pretty cheap to make (although mine are only half that depth). Brought them with me from the last place where they were up for the best part of 10 years. Of course it wouldn't be any good if they were going to get wet, but it rarely rains in my garage...

Reply to
GMM

Thanks. If I use 2" x 2", what size screws to fix to the wall? I ask because, as already demonstrated, I've a habit of 'over engineering'!

Reply to
F

Depends on the wall, on whether the shelving is self supporting or wall supported, etc. 4-5" I guess, if the wall's good & sound.

NT

Reply to
NT

I found it was hard to beat Makro's Fairline branded ready made stuff. If you wait for the special offers then you can have it at £35 a pack. Decent strength steel framing, 5 shelves (chip or mdf) supported on all

4 sides. Adjustable height etc.
Reply to
John Rumm

nowt wrong with that. I've long practised BSE: Brick Shithouse Engineering. Work done 40 years ago is still there - and the pointy ends of the screws on the other side of the walls are handy for hanging things on ;-)

Reply to
PeterC

That's reassuring: it's not just me...

Reply to
F

Slughle! You owe me a new keyboard!

My neighbour regularly regales me of the time the previous occupier here put in kitchen units, and the screws she pushed into the wall ended up falling out into my neighbour's kitchen.

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

I have a spare one for mobile use - 4" cast-iron castors on it, so a push in the right direction...

Chap at work drilled through the wall of his cellar and started draining his washing m/c into next door's cellar! If it /had/ been an outside wall, I still wonder if he would've checked to see where it went.

Reply to
PeterC

Me too. When I put up our first kitchen caninets, I used Rawlbolts!

Reply to
Bob Eager

Thanks, all, for the advice.

2" x 2" (including additional upright), 18mm chipboard and 4" screws on order.
Reply to
F

I've done this in my garage & in several pub cellars;

Fix 63 x 38 CLS timber (cheap as chips) horizontally to the walls using hammer fixings, at the height you want each shelf.

Get a sheet of 11mm OSB ripped down to the depth you want, glue & screw a 2 x 1 batten on edge along the front edges to act as a stiffener.

Screw back edge of shelf onto CLS. Use 3 x 1 sawn as uprights secured to

2 x 1 battens.

Quick, easy, cheap, strong.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

It all depends on the stuff! You'll have to provide some estimate of the load, and whether it is distributed (like say lengths of timber, sheet, pipes) or localised.

12 mm chipboard will sag unless you stiffen it with battens.
Reply to
newshound

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