garage lock replacement - arthritic finger friendly possible?

ageing folks have a "fiddly to get key in but works fine to you and me" garage door rim lock (plant on inside of door, key only just comes through the thick timber side door....)

I imagine a hasp and padlock would be just as fiddly for ageing fingers? especially if padlock stiffens due to weathering?

any better ideas anyone?

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K
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Can you make a small handle for the key? If you google "key holder arthritis" you'll get loads of idea. Like this

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Reply to
GB

hole in the lock "fishing around" with the key through a 2inch thick door- one can do it but there's a "knack" which I expect is too fiddly these days for athritic fingers... only the "O" at the end of they key is left proud of the door once the key is ready to turn the lock...

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

I can see that thickness door being a problem is the hole through the door is rather large, not helped by so little of the key sticking out to fiddle with.

Can the hole be made smaller and guide the key into the lock better?

Maybe see if you can get a new key cut that has a longer shaft?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

this

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> mmm interesting idea - though they say the prob is "finding" the key

They can't see the keyhole? How high from the ground is the lock?

If you get really desperate, you can fit a garage door opener, so they just press a button on a controller. Or replace the existing lock with an electric rim lock, eg Cisa?

Reply to
GB

is this the garage door i.e. to give access to drive a car in, or the side door for peds?

If it's the side door, i'd get a yale type cylinder, and attach the stub of the original rim lock key to the cylinder back, will take a little faffing about and some epoxy/araldite etc,

or can you just fit a yale night latch type lock complete, replacing the rim lock?

If it's the car door, and it's a standard up and over type, then as someone else said, fit a lecky opener,

when i moved into my bungalow, the garage door was missing it's locking handle and the bars that should go out each side to lock it*... found out it was a henderson door, but after pricing up all the parts to put it back to original, i got an electric opener off ebay locally for almost half the price of the lock hardware, and i don't even park me car in the garage, but the lecky door is so handy.. especially when i want to put the trailer back in the garage and it's pissing it down.

  • door was 'locked' closed by the use of a bolt that dropped into a hole drilled in the floor just outside the garage door, not fun when the door closes after you go in, and the bolt drops into the hole locking you in without the key to the side door, not that it was exactly secure, 4 wood screws through the bolt back through the thin steel of the door, and a little block of wood on the back to stop the screws pulling out too easily,
Reply to
Gazz

that would be rather unusual wouldn;t it? no, as I said -the hole for the key in the lock....

normal

it's the side door

Jim K.

Reply to
Jim K

"the thick timber side door"

mmm been looking at them already, max length of the bar is 50mm plus lock body 38mm (less bit left proud of door front 5mm?) less bit left proud to engage with rim lock -10mm? so max door thickness =3D73mm /3 inch ish.....mmmm anyone know if you can get an "extension bar".

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

I'm not going to argue semantics of what a keyhole is.

So, if the key was on a handle, their hand wouldn't be in the way, and they could see the "the hole for the key in the lock"?

Then fit a Cisa?

Reply to
GB

I'd just read that as a mis-type for "the thick timber side of the door"

Reply to
GB

Go to North America, a bit where it's cold in the Winter. Buy a door lock and handle from Home Depot, sold for use in cold climates. Big handle, big key, big clearances.

Worked for me.

Otherwise buildups with bodyfiller or epoxy putty over the handle can be very useful. Old padlocks are good too, the sort with a warded or lever key, not "Yale" pin tumblers, and a free-swinging shackle.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I have a problem with a front door key like that. The old lock was a Kaba type with a reversible key , the new lock has a conventional serrated key . The serrated key is always difficult to fit in because the pointy end has to be in the right spot and straight and level to fit. The old key was much easier to fit when presented no quite end-on to the lock.

Reply to
djc

That sounds as if the hole in the door is considerably larger than the key hole in the lock itself - can you do something to guide the key into the hole - a bit of tin in a conical shape? It sounds as if a new key with a longer shank might be a good idea, too, if you can find a suitable blank - or possibly extend the shank by brazing an extra piece in...

Reply to
docholliday93

is english your first language?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

y hole in the lock itself - can you do something to guide the key into the = hole - a bit of tin in a conical shape?

if you can find a suitable blank - or possibly extend the shank by brazing = an extra piece in...

yes that's my initial assessment of the prob - I'll have another look at knocking up some sort of a guide and then perhaps see if I can get a longer key cut

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

I'm just left surprised that you would be rude to a stranger who has gone out of his way to help you? You seem to be adopting a solution along the lines of my first reply, so it's not as if I haven't actually been helpful.

Reply to
GB

oh dear, you have memory problems too?

your first reply:- "Can you make a small handle for the key? If you google "key holder arthritis" you'll get loads of idea. Like this "- snip blah

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

No, your memory, apparently: "see if I can get a longer key cut"

Anyway, we ought to stop bickering on a public group, so you go next and I promise not to reply however inane you are, and your track record is simply excellent!

Reply to
GB

I knew you were a troll really

over

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

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