Garage door - stuck open :(

[Nozza]

As I was pushing the up-and-over type garage door up (to get the mower out), it didn't seem to go up properly on one side (the left as I look from outside). Anyway, I got the mower out, cut the grass and returned it to the garage.

Now I can't close the garage door. It gets nearly to the floor - about

15 cms away - and is sticking out a little bit. Have tried pushing it back up and trying again. Noticed theres a bit of dangly wire on the left side, and the wire on the right is taught and now theres none on the "rolly bit" at the top.

Want to get the door closed and locked for security, and can then call "an expert" tomorrow unless....

Someone here can give some hint as to how to fix it.

Even if not - some suggestions as to how to close the door would be appreciated.

Secondly, what sort of price would I be looking at if I need a new door/door mechanism, and how much are the electric rollery type doors to get installed?

Advice and anecdotes wanted :)

Noz

[EricP]

The cable on one side has got wrapped around the cone and trapped under the next next bit of cable.

[Scabbydug]

replacement 'cone and cable' sets are available, Henderson brand are what I am familiar with. Follow the supplied instructions otherwise it can be a severe nippy finger job as I have discovered :0)

[Al]

Cable broken. New cone/cable sets around 20-30 per pair. Replace both.

You could DIY, but your local specialist will probably supply and fit both for around twice that. Worth it just to avoid big springy things! Don't contact the big companies, they'll just try and sell you a new door for 500 quid.

Al.

[Graham.]

If the cable has snapped near the end, like mine did you can make new loops at the ends by using the inside of an electrical chock- block as a replacement ferrule.

need to do both sides, just "lose" the same amount of cable on the good side.

It wasn't difficult to do, I used a small vice to clamp the cable where it emerged from the spring assembly. There's a lot of potential energy there, face and eye protection wouldn't go amiss.

[Angela]

Same happened to me last year, it came off the roller and because it got kinked it needed replacing. Cost me £96 for both sides to be done, they had special tools to do it with otherwise I'm sure you could lose a finger or two! They also provided a 3 year guarantee.

[Calvin Sambrook]

Nippy finger! You're joking right. The potential energy stored in that big spring at the top is huge, if the wire ends up flailing around powered by that it won't be nippy fingers! Wear eye protection at the very least when working on these things, preferably full face protection if you have it.

That said it's a cheap and easy job to replace the cones and wires so long as you follow the instructions and do it safely. The kit I used came with a pin to lock the spring while the wire was fitted and aside from a little apprehension at first it was easy and done in less than an hour. Definitely DIY.

[Matty F]

Such doors can be very dangerous if you undo the wrong bolt. It's not a job for the average DIYer. I hope you are going to post something so that we know you still have some usable arms!

I do recommend an electric motor to open them. You'll need another door to get in in case there is a power cut.

[Invisible Man]

Many years ago I motorised an old up and over door with a kit from Wickes. The original door had runners and as soon as the motor pushed the door to open it the door lurched down the runners very suddenly.

The remote control was poorly designed and difficult to hold without setting off the door by accident. The safety beams to make sure there was nobody in the way when the door closed were additional extras available by post.

Inevitably one morning whilst putting my briefcase in the back of my car I accidentally set the door in motion and ended up on the floor, stunned and with a bleeding head. Lesson learned I thought until I realised the agony I was suffering from my back on the M25 that evening was down to this incident.

Some months and a medical report later Wickes insurers coughed up enough for a rather good foreign holiday. On balance though I would rather have not had the pain than had the holiday.

I do agree that spring counterbalanced garage doors should be approached with considerable care. There is a LOT of tension waiting for something to bite or hit.

[John]

My advice would be to NOT go for electric unless you have made sure your door works really smoothly. Motorising a stiff sticking door is a bad idea.

[Man at B&Q]

From the words "dangly" and "none" it's more likely it's snapped.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

So how are you supposed to progress from being "average" if you're not to tackle slightly "above average" jobs?

As has been said, it's a relatively easy and safe job if you use the correct replacement parts, tools and follow the instructions.

MBQ

[Matty F]

It's a matter of being aware of dangerous situations. I know of a lady who unscrewed a bolt on her garage door and injured herself when the spring unwound suddenly.

What DIYers use the correct replacement parts or read the instructions?

[Calvin Sambrook]

So how are you supposed to progress from being "average" if you're not to tackle slightly "above average" jobs?

As has been said, it's a relatively easy and safe job if you use the correct replacement parts, tools and follow the instructions.

MBQ

As I said previously, having done it myself, it's scary but if you are sensible and follow the rules it's perfectly safe.

I agree with MBQ, there are few jobs which I wouldn't tackle because they scared me. Let's face it if a "professional" can do it then it can be done safely. IMO don't do jobs which take lots of practice, expensive kit which can't be hired or which you simply don't enjoy and can afford to have done for you.