After years of putting it off I've decided to replace my asbestos garage ro of with a modern equivalent material corrugated roof. My question is about the interfaces between the ends of panels where they will overlap; the exis ting sheets have a kind of foam gasket to seal the overlap to stop leaks. I cant locate this or anything similar and because my roof has a shallow ver y angle I'm concerned that if I fit new panels without this overlap filler it'll leak. Any advice please?
Thx
In message , simon mitchelmore writes
Not normally necessary. Cement bonded fibre sheets lap tightly whenever I have used them.
You could run a bead of sealant mastic along the ridge before laying the next sheet. Alternatively see the thread on *thin soft foam..* . Beg some offcuts from your local flooring specialist etc.
You can get plastic roofing in 4 metre lengths from stock and Aluminium/steel in longer so you don't need joints.
roof with a modern equivalent material corrugated roof. My question is abou t the interfaces between the ends of panels where they will overlap; the ex isting sheets have a kind of foam gasket to seal the overlap to stop leaks. I cant locate this or anything similar and because my roof has a shallow v ery angle I'm concerned that if I fit new panels without this overlap fille r it'll leak. Any advice please?
If you examine the new sheets, the edge corrugations are designed to overla p without kicking the adjacent sheet up. ie there is a lower profile on on one edge of each sheet that goes undernea th. So any longitudinal cut need to be made taking this into account ie not cut ting the low profile one off unless it's at the end.
The only likely chance of leakage is if moss etc. dams up the valleys stopp ing water running off.
You might consider box profile metal sheeting. Cheaper, easier to fit and lighter.
roof with a modern equivalent material corrugated roof. My question is abou t the interfaces between the ends of panels where they will overlap; the ex isting sheets have a kind of foam gasket to seal the overlap to stop leaks. I cant locate this or anything similar and because my roof has a shallow v ery angle I'm concerned that if I fit new panels without this overlap fille r it'll leak. Any advice please?
Thanks all for advice: just ordered 6.25m continuous lengths of PVC covered steel box section, so no longitudinal joints (heaven!). Last question; rat her than drill into my lightweight steel beams (which look a bit weak) with those self tappers what is the best way to fix to the sheets to C section lightweight steel beams?
e roof with a modern equivalent material corrugated roof. My question is ab out the interfaces between the ends of panels where they will overlap; the existing sheets have a kind of foam gasket to seal the overlap to stop leak s. I cant locate this or anything similar and because my roof has a shallow very angle I'm concerned that if I fit new panels without this overlap fil ler it'll leak. Any advice please?
ed steel box section, so no longitudinal joints (heaven!). Last question; r ather than drill into my lightweight steel beams (which look a bit weak) wi th those self tappers what is the best way to fix to the sheets to C sectio n lightweight steel beams?
There's no other way, holes have to be drilled. I have never seen these hoo k bolts use on box profile sheet. Because it's so thin and "floppy" the fixings go in the valleys.
Make sure you don't "strip" the threads with these self drilling, self tapp ing screws or you will get leaks/sheets blowing off. Very easy done. You need a special tool to go in your drill to hold them, a sort of magneti c box spanner. If you do strip the thread, one solution is to use a rust resistant nut and bolt (plus of course the sealing washer). Or put a block of wood under the steel and use a wood fixing screw.
Use the self drilling fixings designed for the job. The roof sheet supplier should have them on the shelf. There is a plastic sealing washer under the hexagon head to keep out the weather. Use the matching colour plastic caps as cheap Tek screws rust readily
Have a look here
You should use 6mmx5mm butyl strip under the laps. 25mm Tek screws into your steel purlins and 18mm (I think) stitchers for the laps.
The preferred driver is an impact type but I have used a battery powered hand drill on occasion. As Harry says, you can buy a dedicated Tek driver with a hex shaft.
What is your roof pitch? 12.5 to 15deg. barn roofs *drip* OK but shallower pitches may struggle.
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