FWIW: tap valve dismantling & repair to fix dripping tap

Hi all just thought I'd mention a possible failure mode & repair option for a dripping tap, which I'd not encountered before.

We have a Mixer tap in the kitchen sink with standard tap washers etc. Over the past few months it has started dripping, regardless of how tight you turned the handle. I first replaced the washer (or course), then tried a different (softer) washer, and then used a tap reseating tool to grind down the surface of the seat a little.

All of these worked for a while (a few hours or days) and then the problem started to return. I was close to taking extreme action - replacing the whole mixer tap, or gluing a new brass washer in place of the seat, when I had a different thought...

One think I noticed was that the tap became quite stiff when attempting to stop that ... final ... drop. I had assumed this was just the pressure of the washer against the seat. But in case this wasn't so, I decided to dismantle the tap valve itself. It was fairly easy to take apart and I then use a scotchbrite- type abrasive pad to clean a load of black gunk off various surfaces inside.

I reassembled it (using some Valseline as a lubricant) and refitted it, and bingo! Not only does the tap no longer drip, but the actual closing and opening action is vastly smoother.

I surmise that it wasn't the washer pressing against the seat that was stopping the tap turning, but the valve seizing against itself at a similar point. I thought I'd pass this on since tap valve failure seems to be rarely mentioned as a possible source of a dripping tap.

On a related note, how standard are such valves? This one is a 1/2" one with

20 splines for the tap handle. If I decided to replace it anyway, would I need to take it to a plumbers merchants for a match, or would those measurements do?

Cheers jon N

Reply to
jkn
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Good tip :)

Plumbing...

Standards...

Hahahahaha.

OK - there are standards. One for every make of device. Take it with you...

Reply to
Tim Watts

It's normal practice to clean up the thread when changing a washer anyway. And take alook at/renovate the shaft seal/stuffing. So, you have only yourself to blame. For many taps you can get a kit which includes include the handle and complete mechanism to repair/ update the tap. Most taps are cheaply made/low standard these days. Some can't be repaired at all, without unique parts, even if they are available (at reasonable cost)

Reply to
harryagain

For traditional washer type taps they are pretty standard. I buy mine from Wilkinsons. Quarter turn ceramic cartridges are all different.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

An essential web site to keep:

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When I moved into our new house in 1998, I slowly got around to dismantling and lubricating all of our taps - especially the thread so that I would never have difficulty servicing them. It worked and I have never had to apply force - in fact I have hardly ever replaced a washer. (Only due to being super-fussy)

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Yeah, I'd seen that place recently, thanks - but, the prices!!

Yes, I tend to do this on some new things (like bicycle components...) before fitting. Typically I didn't do it when I fitted the tap!

Cheers J^n

Reply to
jkn

In message , jkn writes

Jon, brilliant. I had exactly the same problem, symptoms and repair. Judging by the rest of the kitchen, the mixer taps are probably at least thirty years old. The valve seat is in perfect condition - I discovered that after buying a reseating tool, of course. Ours got to the stage where I has the only one in the family capable of turning the cold tap completely off - and back on again.

Reply to
News

Yeah, I had bought, used and mislaid one tap reseating tool already in the course of 'fixing this', then fortuitously bought another rather good one cheap at a car boot sale. It was partly through inspection of the seat after all of that, which looked unpitted & unscratched etc, that led me to thinking about other failure modes.

I don't know how similar all Tap valve/glands are in construction - this one has a hex body which slides inside a similarly shaped housing. It is possible that simply turning the hex parts around so they mate differently would also work. In any case I thought it worth giving it a good clean and re-lube. I will probably buy a replacement valve anyway, but I am amused at how satisfying it has been to finally find and fix this...

Cheers Jon N

Reply to
jkn

jkn wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Phew - not just me then!! Grit in new installations and components such as taps lying around in the grit and dust always concerned me - the garage door mechanism was really covered in sand and cement. A good wash with parafin and a good lubricating ensured mine works better then the neighbours' doors - some of which have been replaced. I also like to hoover out the back boxes behind switches and sockets! (Do I need help?)

Reply to
DerbyBorn

jkn wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

I hope it will encourage you to do the other taps in the house.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

In article , DerbyBorn writes

What, routinely :-?

Reply to
fred

Try and get out more :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

fred wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@y.z:

No - when I first decorate.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

In article , DerbyBorn writes

Reply to
fred

Well, at least they apologise for their steep prices: "UK Mission Enterprise Ltd - Vat on Valve & Washer - Sorry £73.98"

NT

Reply to
meow2222

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