Fused Switch for Kitchen Appliances

[Rob Convery]

Been thinking about what is required in my new kitchen. It will be having a washing machine and (semi-integrated maybe) dishwasher. These appliances obviously will come with moulded plug, with the all important fuse.

I was looking to put in fused switches which fed the plugs that the appliances will use, but this made me think. If there is a problem which fuse will blow first? Will the one in the plug blow first i.e. will I have to pull the unit out anyway and thus making the fused switch pointless?

So the question - two fuses involved - which would blow first - Plug or Switched supply?

Cheers

Rob

[Sparks]

Probably the oldest fuse, or the lowest rated one! If you can put a 13A in the plug, and a lower one (maybe 10A?) in the FCU, then the one in the FCU should go first - this may not be possible, depending on the rating of the appliance

The main reason for having a switch at the work-top level, is because it is much more accessible than behind the appliance. This is useful if the appliance bursts into flames and you need to turn it off quick!

Sparks...

[Christian McArdle]

Totally random. Possibly both.

Solutions:

1. Try not to care.

1. Use a DP switch instead of an FCU. Then it will definitely blow in the plug first.

2. If you want it to blow at the FCU, then fit an FCU and a flex outlet at appliance height, cutting off the old plug and wiring it directly into the flex outlet.

1. If you want to be able to unplug it, but still want the fuse at worktop height, then install an FCU and a 15A BS546 socket (and replace plug on appliance).

Christian.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The most awkward one to change.

[Lobster]

If you wanted to make sure the FCU fuse blew first, would it (a) work, and (b) be acceptable practice, if you replaced the fuse in the plug with a 13A one, and leave a lower rated fuse (ie correct for the appliance) in the FCU?

And position the sockets in or behind adjacent kitchen units (eg through hand-holes in the back panel) and not directly behind the appliance concerned! That's what I usually do, and TBH it makes it not a big deal whether the fuse blows in the plug or FCU (and how often does it happen anyway!?)

David

[Dave Plowman (News)]

What possible benefit could this have against a plug and socket? ;-)

You've probably realised I think all this nonsense about having separate wall mounted switches or FCUs etc for things like washing machines is pure rubbish. They all have off/on switches. And if needing to be isolated for service, you unplug them. If they burst into fire, would leaning across them to switch off an isolator be a good idea? And if the isolator was situated elsewhere - so rarely used - would SWMBO even remember where it was? If something burst into fire in my house I'd switch of everything at the CU and phone the fire brigade from the garden on my mobile. ;-)

[Rob Convery]

This is exactly what I am swaying towards - more hastle/expense than its worth

[Dave Plowman (News)]

My solution is to have a normal socket mounted underneath the worktop but not behind the appliance. Ie, something reasonably accessible.

[usenet]

Can you get something like an FCU but with an MCB in it instead? I've never seen such a thing but it would be very useful as it would be almost guaranteed to trip before the fuse in the socket went. That of course is assuming an MCB of about the same rating as the 13A fuse in the plug.

A neat swtch/MCB device would be ideal for supplying 'hidden' sockets for washing machines and such.

[dennis]

With the sort of appliance you are talking about the fuses would both be the same and either or both might go.

However what is the problem? They will only blow if there is a fault. You will want to check the flex, etc. anyway, so you are sure its safe to restore the supply (I have never had one go without there being a fault). You have to be able to access the plug, etc. to do this.

[Mark Carver]

If the fuse blew, you'd have to investigate why. That would probably require removing the offending appliance from its position in order to open it up. In which case you'd be able to reach the rear socket and plug anyway.