Hello,
I'm thinking of moving the fuse box a few feet because we're turning the space under the stairs into a toilet. I know this is a DIY forum but I don't intend moving the meter tails myself! Do I have to get the electricity board (I think it's EON formerly the MEB in my area) to do this or will other electricians do this? I think they remove the fuse where the wire comes into the property to kill the power and I thought only the MEB were allowed to do that.
Thanks.
Most electricans will be happy enough to pull the main fuse even though strictly they should not. They may be less happy extending the tails if it means they need to install longer ones rather than just extend the existing ones with a service block to join them, since this would usually mean breaking the seal on the meter connections.
You may find that your supplier will come and fit a service switch after the meter (or switch fuse if you ned a long extension to the tails), and some will do this for free.
Do you mean just moving the consumer unit - or the whole shebang CU/meter/cut-out?
If the whole lot, you will probably have to pay your "wires" company.
EDF charged me =A3350 for 30 minutes work to move the cut-out 1.5 metres, and my meter company a further =A350 to reconnect with a new meter to the new CU installed by me.
EDF totally ripped me off - and weren't interested when I contested the price. Nor AIUI is that area covered by the electricity regulators.
The meter is in a box on the outside, so they can read it when we are out. The tails go inside to a consumer unit, which I am replacing. I'd like to put the new CU in a different position, which will need shorter tails rather than longer ones, so whomever will just have to trim the existing ones I would imagine.
It's reassuring that some electricians might do this, as I would expect the board to be horrendously expensive. So to answer your question, no it's not everything that's moving, just the CU.
Thanks.
Several years back (pre part P) I had one of two choices when replacing my CU with a new unit in exactly the same location.
1) Cut the seal on the "board fuse" - i.e. the one before the meter to isolate the supply. Do what you need to do, replace the fuse. Make sure the meter seals are left intact. 2) Alternatively wait around for the man to come around, disconnect the supply, mess around in the dark drilling holes with a battery powered drill, and then wait for the man to turn up again to reconnect you after doing a safety check and issuing a test certificate at a cost of £X pounds.I chose option 1 - the fuse seal got replaced about three months later when the electricity board did a scheduled meter replacement. No comment was passed or action taken regarding the seal on the main fuse.
/John
You imply you might be moving the CU yourself. This is a *far* more involved job than removing the company fuse and shortening - or indeed replacing - the tails.
In that case it is easy, pull the fuse, install new CU, wire, test, replace fuse.
Personally I have no qualms about pulling the main fuse. When I replaced my CU I installed a main DP switch as the first item after the meter, that makes any further work very simple.
Yes, I was thinking of putting up the new CU myself. I thought that the law was:
So I thought that if I did the house-side of the CU myself, legally I would need someone to do 1 and 2. Whilst rewiring the Cu is involved, as long as you label all the wires it shouldn't be too difficult. I'd like to think I am competent enough to do that. If I have an electrician to do 1 and 2, he would be able to check it was all ok before switching it on anyway.
Or are you suggesting I pull the fuse and do it all myself without getting a check?
Thanks.
If you really are competent to replace the CU, yes. Strictly speaking you can't 'legally' cut the seals and remove the fuse, but it's common practice to do just that, and I've never heard of anyone getting prosecuted for doing so - unless it involved stealing electricity.
Technically speaking true, although loads of pro sprkies (and DIYers) will do it every day without a second thought.
No. Part P requires that you either be a member of a scheme that allows you to self certify, or you that do the work under a building notice. Even as a "certified" electrican you can't certify someone elses work after the fact.
If you submit a building notice, then what actually happens will vary from one BCO and local authority to the next it seems - some may be happy to let you get on with it and give you a completion notice at the end, others may want to commision a pro to carry out test and inspection on their behalf, and only then provide a completion notice. The second catagory seems to be dwindling now the building control deparatments realised they are not allowed to pass on the costs of a test and inspection to you.
(if you go that route, and they want to charge extra, point them at para
1.26 of part P!)
Tis the way many would go - assuming they were happy they knew how to carry out all the required tests along the way.
Thanks. I will consider that. It was the legal side rather than the electrical side of things that had me worried. Any tips? Other than to label all the wires as I disconnect from one CU and move to the other?
Thanks.
Labelling helps, although don't always assume that the current configuration is actually 100% correct. So if common sense seems to contradict the labels - go with common sense (and some tests!) (typical example would be where a previous error resulted in crossed ends of two ring circuits)
(Note, see section 10 of the on site guide[1] for details these tests)
For ring circuits: Continuity of each conductor "round trip", followed by a low ohms resistance test of each. If you can estimate the total length of the circuit cable you can also do a R1 + R2 test (e.g. phase
Next would be an insulation resistance test (making sure that any appliances are disconnected from the circuit and there is no vulnerable electronics hard wired into it)
(if you have suitable test gear) Earth loop impedance tests
Test at each socket to check polarity.
RCD tests.
Lighting circuits and radials can be tested in a similar way with a temporary short introduced at one end of the circuit (usually in the CU) and taking readings at the far end of the circuit if you can work out where it is.
Also check main and supplementary equipotential bonding
[1] "On Site Guide":HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.