What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15 degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold but obviously not cold enough.
Kevin
7C max. preferably 5C
Blimey, 15 is nearly room temperature - where the bugs will multiply no end!
You should be aiming for 4 degC. I assume it *is* switched on?
Yes hence it isn't being used but it does feel cold or shall we say cool inside. I can only assume the reason I didn't notice until recently it that it has been so bloody cold that room temperature has stopped anything going off. I wondered if it was on, but the light comes on and the cooling plate at the back feels cold so it is working but very badly. Anyway it it sufficiently old just to get shot of it. I should say that milk and some other stuff has been kept in a small work top fridge hence not noticing as it has hardly been used.
Kevin
i keep my motorhomes fridge between 2 and 5 degrees, have a thermoniter with settable alarms, so it goes off if it ever reaches 7 degrees,
apparantly the best way to get an accurate temperature of a fridge is to put a glass of water in the middle with a thermomiter in it,
i can get different readings just by the placement of my digital thermomiters sensor, so settled for sticking it to the underside in the middle of the centre shelf, which is glass (yes i know, bloody stupid design of a motorhome fridge to have glass shelves in it, i'd prefer wire racks, so the air can circulate easier.
That's a tool for explosively creating bevelled joints, right? ;)
look at the storage temperature on the label of a carton of milk!!
As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling plate is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal not sealing properly. Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting force to repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.
On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook" had this to say:
You could spray it with WD-40 though.
Or use car body filler.
OBVIOUSLY WITH A NAME LIKE THAT YOU ARE A FRIDGE ENGINEER!
Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
We all know calvin is a wanker!
How else would you get all the ice that has pushed the door open off?
Now you're talking. WD40 is the new angle grinder...
On Thu, 09 Jul 2009 17:28:37 GMT, "The Medway Handyman" had this to say:
It wouldn't do any good of course - but then that's the norm for WD-40...
Around 5 degrees C
Is it a standalone fridge or one attached to a freezer? If the latter, in may well be cooled by cold air from the freezer. If the air flow is blocked (may be by ice or something packed in) or the "flap" which controls the flow is stuck etc. , that could be the problem.
Brian
Right, thats you on the list. Come the revolution...
Zen83237 laid this down on his screen :
If you meant the fridge, rather than the freezer section and +15 rather than -15....
Your fridge section should be below +7 deg C your freezer below (minus of) -17 deg C.
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:26:42 +0100, Harry Bloomfield had this to say:
My Siemens F/F is set at +4C and -18C, and I'm still (only just!) extant...
I usually keep mushrooms in the bottom of the fridge section (with a few tomatos and potatos) and they're usually a bit frosty when I remove a few for brekker...
Some fridges can be quite marginal...
- Some require the bottom "vegetable & debris bucket" to be in place and a shelf set correctly
- Others do not like working unless there is something in there to cool
The only way to really know fridge temperature is a glass of water & thermometer. It should really be no more than 7oC and the ideal is around 5oC (although certain foods have more specific requirements like cheese, lettuce, and so on).
Critical maintenance is preventing the rear fridge cool plate from icing up - on some slimline Indeshit this basically makes the fridge temperature climb inexorably away from safe levels. Common failure modes of fridge freezer is for the thermostat to fail - in some cases jamming on (usually noticed by =A3120+ increase in electricity bill and paint burnt off a very rust-orange compressor).
Measuring air or object surface temperature is pretty pointless. This not withstanding a professor moron of john moores was observed jumping around on BBC television news after "discovering" that surface temperature of objects rose markedly when the door was opened. Within even 1 millimetre of the objects surface the temperature was of course quite normal. I guess he also believed insulation was perfect too. Quite how he got an O-Level in physics never mind a professorship is beyond me.
I might be the odd one out, but I think all fridge/freezer manufacturers *should* be forced to provide LED temperature displays for both. I suspect they have not purely because many products are actually quite marginal with either minor ice build up (and never mind the fun of frost free). Alarms could be an lucrative optional plug-in extra like a card, SMT piezo & bit of logic - like a big SD. Can not understand Bosch putting the green/red lights behind the door seal so you can't see them without opening the door. Genius. They do have a dial thermostat in the door which has ambiguous markings.
Common failure modes of frost free fridge/freezers is the defroster fails and the fridge temperature rises.
My Liebherr also has all the controls and lights hidden behind the door. Unless your fridge has a fan then there is likely to be a temperature gradient in your fridge. i.e. it is cooler at the bottom than at the top.
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