I have to put a door casing in a wall (I have cut through the double brick wall already) for an internal door. My local builders merchant recommends frame fixings for the casing. He says just hammer them in, but I am unsure exactly what he means. Can anyone please point me in the right direction on how to proceed, with this type of fixing. Thanks Neil
They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached. The hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size. Drill the holes in the frame first - making sure they're in the middle of bricks. Then offer up the frame - making sure it's exactly right position wise - and drill into the masonry. Then hammer in the fixing. Do the same with the others, and finally tighten each one with a large screwdriver. It's a quick and efficient fixing.
Forget Fischer fixings. they are expensive. Get a packet of Rawlplugs
-brown ones and a 7.5 or 8 mm masonry drill bit.
Drill into the bricks through the frame. Fix the frame that is going to house the hinges and make sure you get it plumb in two directions and the head is level.
Put a couple of screws in the other leg, top and bottom (which is probably what the man meant) and hang the door. Fix that last leg to suit the door.
Remember to allow space each side of the wall for the finish. And don't forget the door must close over carpets or whatever.
When puting the screws in it is best to avoid the regions that you are going to be fixing the hinges and the lock to. Mark them out first.
If you are going to be using those furry intumescent strips for fireproofing you want plenty of space all around. If you are just fitting with no fire-proofing, allow 2 mm all around. That's about the thickness of a twopenny bit.
You want to get hold of a variety of packing pieces of different thickness before you start. Thin ply and formica are best. But you can cut some long thin wedges ready. They are easiest to use and always provide the exact thickness required.
Put them just above the screws. Some people drill right through them. This stops them falling out but is the devil to try and adjust if you have to mess around with the door later.
You should have left yourself some 1/4 to 1/2 inch space either side to play with, so put the hinge side in as tight a possible so that parts of the frame are touching the reveal and pack out where the uneve surface of the brickwork leaves gaps. (Only necessary to pack where you are puting the screws. (4 pairs.))
Then use thicker packers on the other leg.
You can have plenty of room below the lintle. (You DID put a lintle in didn't you?)
I put concrete lintels in. I cut the hole with one inch spare so shouldn't need to much packing out . I will put the casing in tomorrow. I have printed all info out so I can refer to it. Thanks again Neil
Beware of B&Q door casings made out of banana trees. Some original door casings in my house were held by about 4 nails with packers and were dead straight. For new ones from B&Q, I had to use loads of screw fixings since they were so curved and/or warped. And I had picked the best ones in the store ! Simon.
Thanks to everyone for help given. I have put the casing in this morning and it all went well. The casing is dead plumb so well pleased. I put a batten at the bottom of casing making all sides 30 inches across before starting, and found it a good guide for fixing. It stopped the casing moving about. The only down side was I forgot it was there and tripped over it falling against a radiator, bad bruising to pride. I guess clumsy would be a polite expression. Cheers to all. Neil
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