frame fixings

I have to put a door casing in a wall (I have cut through the double brick wall already) for an internal door. My local builders merchant recommends frame fixings for the casing. He says just hammer them in, but I am unsure exactly what he means. Can anyone please point me in the right direction on how to proceed, with this type of fixing. Thanks Neil

Reply to
Neil
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something like Hammerfix fixings as made by Fischer Fixings. Click here

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Reply to
Gel

Drill hole through timber and brick, insert fixing, hit fixing - job done.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Thanks Gel. I have looked at site. The ones I have are the same.

Reply to
Neil

Thanks Rob, sounds easy enough. The builders merchants said 2 top and 2 at bottom of casing each side. Does that sound enough? Neil

Reply to
Neil

They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached. The hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size. Drill the holes in the frame first - making sure they're in the middle of bricks. Then offer up the frame - making sure it's exactly right position wise - and drill into the masonry. Then hammer in the fixing. Do the same with the others, and finally tighten each one with a large screwdriver. It's a quick and efficient fixing.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

No.

Forget Fischer fixings. they are expensive. Get a packet of Rawlplugs

-brown ones and a 7.5 or 8 mm masonry drill bit.

Drill into the bricks through the frame. Fix the frame that is going to house the hinges and make sure you get it plumb in two directions and the head is level.

Put a couple of screws in the other leg, top and bottom (which is probably what the man meant) and hang the door. Fix that last leg to suit the door.

Remember to allow space each side of the wall for the finish. And don't forget the door must close over carpets or whatever.

When puting the screws in it is best to avoid the regions that you are going to be fixing the hinges and the lock to. Mark them out first.

If you are going to be using those furry intumescent strips for fireproofing you want plenty of space all around. If you are just fitting with no fire-proofing, allow 2 mm all around. That's about the thickness of a twopenny bit.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

The only really good reason for using them is with breeze block. And in unaccessible places where an hammer is a quick otion to a lot of sweat.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

I have already bought the hammer type so may as well use them. Thanks to all for other advice. Neil

Reply to
Neil

You want to get hold of a variety of packing pieces of different thickness before you start. Thin ply and formica are best. But you can cut some long thin wedges ready. They are easiest to use and always provide the exact thickness required.

Put them just above the screws. Some people drill right through them. This stops them falling out but is the devil to try and adjust if you have to mess around with the door later.

You should have left yourself some 1/4 to 1/2 inch space either side to play with, so put the hinge side in as tight a possible so that parts of the frame are touching the reveal and pack out where the uneve surface of the brickwork leaves gaps. (Only necessary to pack where you are puting the screws. (4 pairs.))

Then use thicker packers on the other leg.

You can have plenty of room below the lintle. (You DID put a lintle in didn't you?)

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

I put concrete lintels in. I cut the hole with one inch spare so shouldn't need to much packing out . I will put the casing in tomorrow. I have printed all info out so I can refer to it. Thanks again Neil

Reply to
Neil

================ You can use expanding foam to help with final fixing - it makes a very solid job and gives a good feel to the door closing.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Good idea I have some left from another job,

Thanks Neil

Reply to
Neil

The fact they use the same size hole for both the frame and masonry is useful. They're expensive but fast.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

That statement needs to be qualified with "IMHO" ;-)

MBQ

Reply to
manatbandq

Beware of B&Q door casings made out of banana trees. Some original door casings in my house were held by about 4 nails with packers and were dead straight. For new ones from B&Q, I had to use loads of screw fixings since they were so curved and/or warped. And I had picked the best ones in the store ! Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

Thanks to everyone for help given. I have put the casing in this morning and it all went well. The casing is dead plumb so well pleased. I put a batten at the bottom of casing making all sides 30 inches across before starting, and found it a good guide for fixing. It stopped the casing moving about. The only down side was I forgot it was there and tripped over it falling against a radiator, bad bruising to pride. I guess clumsy would be a polite expression. Cheers to all. Neil

Reply to
Neil

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