Looks like the tube has gone in the utility room. Only been in about three years. Perhaps we shouldn't have cheese-pared on the starter (tube always flickered two or three times at power-on).
SWMBO says that the tube (a 1500mm 58-watter) is a "slimline" and indeed its only about 2cm or so across, tops, a lot narrower than what you see in an office. So, will any 1500mm 58W tube inevitably be the right diameter, if not what word describing the tube should I be looking for. I've had a look at Homebase and Screwfix (B&Q site is buggered) and they seem to have suitable tubes provided I can get the size right.
Now - starters: what should I be looking for in terms of a starter that causes the tube not to flicker a few times at startup? Presumably they are all plug-compatible.
With the electronic starter at 4 quid then it might be worth paying the extra for an electronic ballast for all their benefits (inc flicker free start), under a tenner here:
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Lamps aren't my thing but 58W implies a 5ft T8 (8 indicating 8 x 1/8 of an inch in diameter). Next size up is T12 (1.2") which would be 5ft 65W, next size down is T5 (5/8") which doesn't appear to be available in 5ft so it is pointing to the T8 lamp
If you're trying to avoid the expense of an electronic ballast (circa
23 quid +VAT the last time I checked) and eliminate the shitty quality of a 'starter neon glow bi-metal switch' (far far too common thse days what with Chinese imports and all), a good 'halfway house' solution is to buy an electronic pulse starter switch.
These are guranteed to start even a stubborn tube due to the 4KV pulse burts they can produce. With tubes in good condition, they can effect an instant switch on - no flicke on/off startup sequence to cause annoyance.
I've just googled to find one of the many internet traders who were selling them at less than 2 quid each plus P&P and discovered that Wickes are _now_finally_ selling them. Unfortunately, there is a bit of a price premuim to pay for such instant 'gratification, they're priced at a rather exhorbitant £5.99 per starter pack (implying a pack of two or more but it doesn't specify the pack quantity and I suspect it may be a pack quantity of ONE).
I'm not sure whether they're available in their normal outlets but if you're in a hurry, it might be worth ringing your local store to check, otherwise google for a cheaper source elsewhere.
Yes, thass the one. Looking at the old tube I see it does have a T8 marking on it. Now, reading around a bit (the Wikipedia article seems quite good) am I right in thinking that the electronic ballast would be
*instead of* an electronic starter? Either way I suspect I'd need to get the sparks in to install it - looks like a different fitting might be needed too.
I'm inclined to get an electronic starter in the short term, then get sparks to install an electronic ballast next time he's here for some other job. The electronic starter could then go in the shed where the slow start is an irritation.
That sound like a reasonable approach? Thanks to both for the info, BTW.
That seems to be dominating my search results for electronic starters. When I was last looking into this issue of 'crap starter switches', there seemed to be a much larger variety around but Wickes and other such stores and even the local specialist lighting stores) didn't stock any.
The big thing about this particular type is the mention of a lower
1.3KV pulse voltage versus the more normal 4KV pulse voltage of the alternatives along with a mention of a 2.3 second preheat period which is a considerable delay between switch on and light output. Not exactly the instant start of the other starters or that of a Quick Start transformer ballast (a 50 year old technology btw!) which my kitchen and basement 4 foot light fittings enjoy (less than 200ms to full light output from switch on).
The only place I've tolerated switch start is in my office where I've fitted an "80 Watt" 5 foot slimline fitting. I did run with a quickstart but the modern slimline tubes don't respond to the quickstart transformer so I had to revert back to the more primitive switch start.
When I did this, I found that the only two spare starters I had to hand began acting up within a week or two and likewise a new pair bought at my 'local chandlers'. Indeed, the only switch starters that have managed to avoid 'going bad' were a pair I bought at a not quite so local elctrical and lighting trade supplier when I discovered that their claim of having an electronic ballasted fitting for sale was false (I was going to replace the whole fitting - cheaper than buying the electronic ballast by itself in order to upgrade an existing fitting to get not only the benefit of 'instant start' but also around a 10% or so efficiency improvement).
An electronic starter switch doesn't give any further benefit of efficiency, only a more reliable method of tube 'ignition'.
I think the electronic ballast efficiency improvement is more to do with increased light output rather than reduced consumption for the same illumination level so no reduction in the electricity bill.
However, assuming the equivilent of, say 6 watts saving for a 58W tube, the 23 quid cost of an electronic ballast will take nearly 4 years of continuous run time to justify the ROI cost (in practice a good 8 to 10 years period).
Unlike the kitchen light, I'm not in the habit of turning the 'office' lamp on and off anywhere near as frequently so can tolerate this delayed ignition and save myself the cost of such an investment.
Obviously, if you're having to replace the whole fitting anyway, it will pay to buy one already kitted out with an electronic ballast (quite often, such fittings are cheaper than a 'retrofit' ballast unit all on its own).
But gives a flicker-free start and improves tube life. As a drop-in replacement for the bog-standard glow starter it's a no-brainer.
'Semi-resonant start' - now thoroughly obsolete (in Europe, at least) and not compatible with T8 krypton tubes, as you go on to say. It was frequently troublesome too.
True.
Not true. A switch-start ballast runs the tube at its rated wattage (give or take tolerances and mains voltage variation). To that add around 15-20% for ballast losses to get the 'circuit watts' figure.
Electronic HF ballasts under-run the tubes - c. 50 W for a 58 W tube - and the ballast losses are lower, such that the total circuit watts figure will be broadly similar to the nominal tube rating. Under-running the tube doesn't reduce light output because high-frequency operation improves the efficiency (more lumens per watt). This effect comes in to effect at around 5 kHz (modern ballasts operate at 30-40 kHz).
Converting to HF is the way to go, IMHO, now that the ballasts have come down in price. As well as the modest power saving other benefits are freedom from stroboscopic effects and excellent power factor - the modern ballasts are around 0.98-0.99 PF. (Hence a good sinusoidal current waveform and no worries about overloaded neutrals in a 3-ph set-up.)
That will work and I understand your caution but maybe take a look at the circuit linked to below which is how the electronic ballast would be connected, it's really quite simple and I'd be surprised if it was beyond you:
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In short (sorry), you disconnect the wiring from the existing ballast and starter then connect incoming live and neutral to the 2 ballast supply pins then connect the 2 wires from each lampholder (1 either end) to the 2 pairs of the pins on the ballast as shown.
The ballast is likely to be double insulated so no earth required to it but the casing should remain earthed. The only thing you might have to do is to lengthen a couple of the wires to the lampholders.
No need to get confused with the existing circuit, once you disconnect the existing gear you only have 6 wires, incoming supply (2) and 2 pairs to the lampholders (4), the polarity on the wires to the lampholders doesn't even matter so one less thing to go wrong.
It would be a very easy job for an electrician, one to do as an add-on rather than worth a call out.
As the ballasts are so cheap I'd suggest getting one for the shed too as it will handle starting in cold temperatures better too.
Yes that looks simple enough - the only issue is whether the new ballast is too large physically to mount in the housing at the spot the existing ballast sits. If so then where does it go?
I'd bite the bullet and replace the control gear with electronic. Not only will you get flicker free starting, but the tube will have a decent life too. And they are more efficient. Look on Ebay for the odd one off bargain.
I have two as under cupboard lights in the kitchen - a 6ft and 4 ft. They are on several hours a day and I've yet to change a tube, in getting on for 10 years.
I've replaced three conventional starters with their 300C starters, only £2.50 each, though the rapid starting did seem to kill-off one tube (it have been on its last legs anyway I suppose) they certainly give a rapid start, but are not exactly silent!
I'm familiar with the methods (besides, I can always refresh my memory by consulting my "Lamps And Lighting" 2nd edition 1972, reprinted 1979 ISBN:0 7131 3267 1).
However, I was referring to the transformer "QuickStart"(tm) type (pp332 Fig. 18.11 circuits (a) and (b) in said reference work) rather than resonant start types.
According to my reference source the current waveform only needs
15KHz to effectively linearise it. I suppose the higher frequency is used to reduce the bulk of the required inductor. It's interesting to note the compensatory reduction of lamp power to maintain the original "Design Lumens" output.
BTW, I'd expect the electronic ballast would be able to maintain a constant power feed to the tube in the face of the widest of voltage variation limits.
Modern fabrication processes aught to make such ballasts even cheaper to make than the traditional choke ballast, so there's plenty of room for further price reductions once the 'Honeymoon' period is over for the industry.
There's no rush to 'upgrade' an existing luminary whilst the price is still hovering around and above the ten quid mark. Maybe in a few years time, when the prices are round the 5 quid mark, will it become an attractive enough proposition otherwise it's a case of replacing the whole light fitting (often including a tube) for the price of just the ballast.
Thanks for the link, Sid. It looks like one of the e-tailers I was checking out last year. The price is a far cry from that of Wickes. The only unknown being the P&P charge but I doubt it would be more than a quid or two for one or two starters.
It's a pity they don't list their shipping charges other than as a 'surprise item' in the checkout window. ICBA going through a test 'purchase' to discover this cost when it aught to be mentioned elsewhere on the site.
The electronic ones are pretty weeny, remember it's replacing a big iron cored lump with electronic circuitry, a bit like old heavy plug-top power supplies and new lightweight switchmode supplies for phones and the like.
Dims for the one that I previously linked to are 280 x 30 x 28 mm so possibly longer than the original but really slim and narrow. There's usually plenty of room in a 5ft strip so I'd expect it to slide right in but maybe take a look, taking the tub out should leave the cover easily removable, either by clips or a couple of screws. These things are intended for retrofitting.
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