Fluidmaster Cable Pushbutton Dual Flush Valve sticking

[Stephen]

Hello,

I have a toilet that has a "Fluidmaster Cable Pushbutton Dual Flush Valve" fitted.

is fitted to a toilet from Screwfix. Screwfix supplied a no-name valve and I can't remember what happened now but I ended-up replacing it with this one. All went well for a while until this morning the fluidmaster valve started playing-up; when flushed, the water kept flowing and would not stop.

I tried to have a look on the internet for some help and I read that sometimes scale can prevent the washer from making a complete seal. It is a hard water area but I have run my finger around the washer and the opposite surface and I can't see or feel anything there.

If I remove the valve from the toilet, it seems that when I press the button, the washer lifts but does not fall. So I think the fault is something sticking inside. I have had to isolate the toilet to prevent water trickling all day. Fortunately we have a downstairs toilet that we will have to use in the meantime.

Can you offer me any advice on what has happened and what to do to fix it? I don't really want to be putting new valves in every couple of years.

I am very tempted to go back to siphons only this cistern being button operated has a hole in the lid rather than the side, which prevents me from fitting a handle.

Thanks, Stephen.

[TheScullster]

"Stephen" wrote

Hi Stephen

I had a similar experience not so long ago - only seemed to happen occasionally. Turned out it was the inlet float valve passing, filling the cistern to overflow level, then overflowing into the pan via the flush valve.

Are you sure it's the flush valve and not the valve controlling water feed into the cistern?

Phil

[YAPH]

Funnily enough I had one yesterday on a Screwfix cheapie WC I'd installed about (mumble) ago - less than a year I'm sure. The flush valve was actually rebadged as MacDee but was basically the Fluidmaster (or maybe Fluidmasters are rebadged MacDees - either way they're the same). I fiddled with it awhile: it only stuck on full flush, and the cistern was a bit cramped and maybe the bowden-type actuator cable was binding - it was forced to come out of the drop valve body at a tight bend whichever way one fitted the valve (it can go 2 ways, 180 degrees apart). It was late and I cba fiddling around further and I had another on the van so I just swapped it. That's 2 I've got now - another that was doing the same thing a month or 2 back. They're supposed to be guaranteed so I'll try calling Fluidmaster but it's a bit worrying if they are going to keep going bad this way.

I did try a Delchem (Torbeck mfr) a while back but that was trouble too.

[Stephen]

Hello,

I can't remember what happened to the valve fitted by Screwfix but I know I replaced it with a fluidmaster one, believing that the branded one would be much more reliable. I thought fluidmaster had a good reputation.

I have had one or two occasions where the flush sticks, and like your experience, it has always been on full flush but pressing half flush a few times has corrected it.

This time however, nothing seems to stop it. It is definitely the valve not dropping. The water level is not high enough to overflow because the cistern cannot fill; it is constantly trickling into the pan. The inlet is a torbek valve which is clear of the sides and is not binding.

Like you, I fear the only way is to replace the valve but I don't want to be doing this too often.

Thanks, Stephen.

[Luke]

I've had exactly the same experience with the Fluidmaster valves. I found it quite amusing that on the side of the box, it proclaims, "Replace your traditional siphon again and again, or replace it ONCE with Fluidmaster!". Now, in my experience the traditional siphon always gives years of dauntless, trouble-free service, requiring a new membrame once in what, every ten years? Yet I have had two Fluidmasters fail in 3 years. It has always exhibitied the same symptoms - that of sticking open, allowing water to pass. Dismantling and examining doesn't reveal much - but I'm guessing it's to do with either wear or limescale.

Either way as the toilet is in a house I rent out, I have not bothered trying to repair for the sake of =A311 or =A312 - I've just replaced and left the tenants in peace. If the toilet didn't have a top mounted push button flush then I'd be putting a traditional siphon in there.

Luke

[Stephen]

I could not have put it better myself.

Stephen.

[philcowtan]

I have had the same problem and assumed a blockage at the siphon end. It w as not there. If you take to bits the button push assembly at the top end of the cable, you will find a brass nipple soldered to the end of the stain less steel wire. Where it is joined the end 5-7mm of wire has expanded (pr obably dsimilar metal corrosion.). This means that the cable does not move easily along the slot when button is pushed. Solution is to remove the wire and file the slot slightly wider so that the wire easily rotates in the sl ot . Try it and when loose put back together. No need to remove the siphon - just a 10 minute job. This is a manufacturing defect so Fluidmaster sho uld look into it.

Phil

[Graham.]

I should think he has fixed/replaced it/moved house after four years.

[Brian-Gaff]

Blimey, if he has not fixed it by now we would smell his loo from here. Brian

[stacey.marshall]

was not there. If you take to bits the button push assembly at the top en d of the cable, you will find a brass nipple soldered to the end of the sta inless steel wire. Where it is joined the end 5-7mm of wire has expanded ( probably dsimilar metal corrosion.). This means that the cable does not mov e easily along the slot when button is pushed. Solution is to remove the wi re and file the slot slightly wider so that the wire easily rotates in the slot . Try it and when loose put back together. No need to remove the siph on - just a 10 minute job. This is a manufacturing defect so Fluidmaster s hould look into it.

Thanks Phil,

I took the little screw out of the linkage where the button attaches to the cable and separated the wire from the plastic mechanism. I can see what y ou mean about the cable run through the plastic leaver, but in my case that looks fine. Pulling the wire directly I could see that the cable did not slide back in to the outer cable sheaf by itself, but with a little help it did go back and the plunger closed. I have sprayed some lubricant down th e outer sheaf and made sure that the cable is not as twisted as it was. Fo r the moment it is working again. Thanks for the advice.

Fluidmaster Push Button Cable Dual-Flush Valve 550073

[j.a.collins1972]

Can I just twist the body off or do I have to remove the cistern

[Graham.]

If there the same as the Fluidmasters I fitted here, then you have to split the tank from the pan. Fit a new doughnut washer.

[Tim+]

Is it a concealed cistern? If so, it will almost certainly just twist off.

Tim

[Greg]

replying to TheScullster, Greg wrote: I can here the flapper when it falls. My system is the fluid master dou flush but has the handle .It's a pull or push. I system is made to where you don't see the flapper but it is inside acyl with lil adj knobs on top, but it's all mounted inside the tank. Any help with a quick help would as I don't want to switch out the complete unit so soon. I am married to miss bean counter and she didn't like the cost the first time.!!?

[wolfitha]

was not there. If you take to bits the button push assembly at the top en d of the cable, you will find a brass nipple soldered to the end of the sta inless steel wire. Where it is joined the end 5-7mm of wire has expanded ( probably dsimilar metal corrosion.). This means that the cable does not mov e easily along the slot when button is pushed. Solution is to remove the wi re and file the slot slightly wider so that the wire easily rotates in the slot . Try it and when loose put back together. No need to remove the siph on - just a 10 minute job. This is a manufacturing defect so Fluidmaster s hould look into it.

I had this problem. As with another post I discovered corrosion at the push

-button end of the wire but in my case the corrosion was confined to the br ass tip soldered onto the end of the wire which prevented the plastic lever it is attached to from rotating properly. Took it out and dissolved the co rrosion with One Shot drain cleaner (concentrated Hydrochloric acid). Perfe ct.