Flooring Quandry

[thegman1978]

I've knocked through from the kitchen to the dining room of my Victorian ho= use, and am now considering my options with regards to flooring.

The dining room has lovely (suspended) original pine floorboards, while the= kitchen had quarry tiles laid directly to concrete base. I wanted to cont= inue the pine flooring through to the kitchen - which sits approx one and a= half inches below the tops of the dining room joists - using reclaimed flo= orboards on battens fixed into channels in the concrete base, in order to m= ake it level with the dining room.

However, the concrete under the quarry tiles breaks up when a hole is drill= ed, meaning that fixings cannot be used. Although solid, the concrete is m= ade up of large pieces of loosish stone and is about 9" thick from what i c= an tell. The only solution i can think of it to make channels in the base = and concrete battens into place, fixing the floorboard to these. Sound pla= usible? Any other options?

Cheers.

[The Natural Philosopher]

house, and am now considering my options with regards to flooring.

kitchen had quarry tiles laid directly to concrete base. I wanted to continue the pine flooring through to the kitchen - which sits approx one and a half inches below the tops of the dining room joists - using reclaimed floorboards on battens fixed into channels in the concrete base, in order to make it level with the dining room.

meaning that fixings cannot be used. Although solid, the concrete is made up of large pieces of loosish stone and is about 9" thick from what i can tell. The only solution i can think of it to make channels in the base and concrete battens into place, fixing the floorboard to these. Sound plausible? Any other options?

That should work. I'd insulate as well if you can and lay a vapour barrier.

[thegman1978]

Ooops, sorry for the double post!

Thanks for the advice, sounds plausible. I was under the impression that softwood floorboards should always be fixed to joists/battens rather than floating? They are square edge, not tongue and groove.

As for insulation i presume you mean rigid celotex or similar, then boards laid directly on top of that?

CHeers

Garry

[The Natural Philosopher]

softwood floorboards should always be fixed to joists/battens rather than floating? They are square edge, not tongue and groove.

yes, you will need to do that, but te joistes dont have to be nailed down as it were

laid directly on top of that?

thats one way. Id go for insulation between joists meself. taped over with the foil tape sold for celotex, then boards screwed over.

Lay any cables and pipes first..

IF the screed has no damp course, Id lay one before the wood goes down under the insulations as well.

The other possibility is simply remove all the screed and go down to bare earth and built brick pillar (to take the joists) with damp courses, and arrange underfloor ventilation.

Still insulate though

[thegman1978]

softwood floorboards should always be fixed to joists/battens rather than floating? They are square edge, not tongue and groove.

Gotcha. I could actually fix the perimeter battens directly to the wall to prevent any "bounciness".

laid directly on top of that?

This was the original plan

Unfortunately due to the position of the kitchen it would not really be plausible to get adequate ventilation, and there would be a LOT of screed to remove.

Option 1, i think ;)