floorboard gap filling

[doozer]

While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.

Things I have read about:

Cork: Ok but will it last and how do I get it in the smaller gaps.

Sealant (silicone or otherwise): If flush I don't think it will last.

Caulking (as done on ships): Not bad but hard work and will likely leave ridges.

Slivers of wood: Nice idea if you can get hold of them. Will need to re-sand and varnish floor though.

Any other ideas?

If you think that I am being bugged by nothing feel free to say. Everyone else I have spoken to (except what I am sure is B&Qs oldest employee) things that I am mad for even caring.

Cheers

Graham

[andrewpreece]

FWIW I filled my gaps with natural wood colour acrylic frame sealant. I also ( belt and braces ) caulked the gaps first with twisted hemp. One year on things are fine: a few gaps have opened in the sealant, since wood moves, and there must be something about this winter that has made it move more than the last, but the gaps are only about 1 - 1.5mm max, and then only along a few boards. I shall probably reseal them with more frame sealant, but frankly there's no real need. Just my two penn'orth. I just realised that it is not draught or fluff or spiders crawling through the gaps that annoys you, it is merely feeling the gaps via your stocking feet! I have to say I have never even really considered the feeling of the gaps on my feet, but the frame sealant is actually slightly depressed wrt the boards so there certainly is a gap to feel. I think you will have to consider something tougher than frame sealant if you wish to make the gaps undetectable to the touch. Why don't you wear some slippers!

Andy.

[Rob Morley]

If it bothered me enough to do anything about it I'd be inclined to go with clear silicone sealant, and see how it lasted. Or lift the boards and re-lay them.

[Old Bill]

Trouble with silicone is it won't take paint/stain/colour of any kind. May not be a problem for OP though. I wouldn't have bare boards where there would be gaps now as I recently went under the floor of an old house that had this. You could see quite clearly through the gaps. As the space under the floor was 6-12" deep in 100+ years of god knows what muck and rodent droppings, the potential effect on the health of the residents was worrying, not to mention the draughts.

[kevinseven772000]

Why not put a carpet down?

[doozer]

I'm not to worried about being able to stain it as I like the colour of the natural wood (which is what we have at the moment) but not being able to varnish over it would be a pain as the floor does need touching up now and then when it looks a little shabby. I suspect you could varnish over the sealant but it, the varnish, would then flake or peel away over time. Although sealant would probably the the easiest I am not sure it's the best solution.

As for gaps and dirt our place is only ~50 years old and has tongue and grove throughout so there aren't really gaps into the space below the floor except for where boards have been lifted to rewire. I ran a network in last year so I had to lift quite a few boards and it is pretty clean and dry down there. Because the house is on a bit of a slope there is practically half a room hight at the front of the house. Makes me want to do something with the space!

[doozer]

That is maybe an option. The boards are in good shape and have been professionally finished so it seems a shame to cover them. We quite like them as well, or least don't currently like carpet enough to cover them if you see what I mean.

Floorboards are amazing easy to keep clean as well. Just attack with a broom or a very quick go over with the vacuum (to get stuff out the cracks). Once in a while mop them.

[doozer]

I have my trusty pair of slippers to hand (well to foot to be more precise) but sometimes it's nice to just to as nature intended.

I like the idea of thin slivers of pine (the boards are pine) glued up and then banged into the gaps. The trouble is I have only found a few posts on this which were fairly vague.

I actually bought some sealant and was going to give it a go on a small section but chickened out at the last minute. I wasn't sure it would match or that I would be able to get it out the gap if I didn't like it.

[Rob Morley]

If you want to try it you could apply some sort of release agent (wax, vaseline?) to a small part, then apply sealant confident in the knowledge that it will just peel off. You'll then need to scrub it with something like white spirit before reapplying.

[Stuart Noble]

IME nothing makes the gaps unnoticeable. You're almost better off accentuating them, but giving the impression at least of uniformity. Slivers of wood are ok if your gaps are uniform and not tapered. Last time I did this I ended up with 4 or 5 different thicknesses of sliver, and there were still gaps where none of them quite fitted. Also, this is only an option if you have a sawbench. Cork is probably the best bet if you can find it roughly in the dimensions to match your gaps. Laminate floor edging? Any sort of filler will take forever to apply, and even longer to remove from the board faces. I rather fancy the twisted jute idea as a finish. Some sort of hard wearing string/rope perhaps?

[Chris Bacon]

You can do this, but only glue one side of the filling strip. Try to use a slightly darker timber if you can.

Silicone sealant isn't really suitable - you can't overpaint or sensibly stain the stuff, and it's a pain if you smear the job, and a pain to get off if you need to. Again, if you use a filler, use one a fraction darker than the boards. I have used papier mache on boards, made with a dollop of wallpaper paste in the mix. It's OK, and will sand/stain easily. However, you are likely to get some cracking as the boards will continue to move over the years.

[doozer]

Good point. Don't want to glue the floor solid :-)

I like the idea of using some dark hardwood but I suspect that would be pig to get down into the gaps.

An idea just occurred to me though. What about balsa. It's fairly soft and springy so expansion won't be such a problem and it's really easy to work with. I think it would probably also take a stain right through the wood as it's quite porous. Once it's got a couple of coats of floor varnish on it I imagine it will be tough enough to withstand the traffic it gets. Your opinions please :-)

As I don't want to stain the boards I am not sure papier mache is the way forward. I have read about the idea else where but most people seemed to say it was best suited for when you were painting the boards.

I think I might just have to learn to live with it.

[andrewpreece]

Worth a go. If papier mache is OK then I expect balsa would be good too. You're in new DIY territory! Be aware there are different cuts of balsa, I tink that quarter-grain is a harder cut, slightly deeper in colour than other balsa cuts, and might be the type to go for. If you intend setting it flush with the floorboards I imagine it will need to be able to stand a little wear.

Andy.

[Mary Fisher]

I suggest that you put it on the bottom of the list of Things To Do. When you've done everything else - if you ever do - you'll know if it's still a priority.

Mary

[doozer]

I mentioned my latest idea to the SO again last night. I have been "shown" that it is a bad idea :-)

I suppose I should really fill the hole in the ceiling first and then...

Graham

[Mary Fisher]