Fixing toilets

[Tim Lamb]

The new shower room progresses... slowly!

Floor tiling done although I now wish I had used wider grout spacing.

Fitting the toilet is next on the list and leads to a query... because it is not now going where planned I am nervous about using the supplied fixings because of the under floor heating pipework.

The close coupled cistern will be fixed to the wall. An earlier thread suggested silicone as being adequate for the floor attachment. Which type? White sanitary or clear?

I understood John's point about using toothpicks to avoid over thinning the actual joint but are there any other gotchas?

[sm_jamieson]

Why is that - just the look ? What size tiles are they, and what size grout lines ? Simon.

[polygonum]

Somehow the white stuff seems more visually intrusive/obvious and seems to highlight any dirt or imperfections.

[Brian Gaff]

Gluing a toilet down.. Really, I've seen some of those all wobbly and leaking in some cases. Of course no idea what they actually used. To me some screws are needed as some people are quit athletic when using the bog!

Brian

[Tim Lamb]

300x300x10 thick. Spacing 3mm.

Appearance not quite what I hoped for. I'll try a couple of pics later.

[polygonum]

Sticking down with silicone is 100% fine if a) the floor is suitable and b) they use sufficient material and care. Ours has been stuck down for around 10 years and is as solid as the day I did it. (Or maybe a few days later? It did have to cure fully.) And there is no possibility of a screw damaging the glaze or starting a crack.

[Dave Liquorice]

You mean you forget to keep the pipe work clear of where the pan was going to sit. Why would you want to heat the floor under the pan?

Like Brian I'm not sure a "glued" pan will work very well in the long term. When one leans side ways to wipe yer arse there is quite a turning moment on the pan base. A lot will depend on how wide the rim under the pan that can sensibly be glued is. If it's an inch or so probably OK but just a narrow band... Even if that joint lasts will the tile to floor?

[Tim Lamb]

I was struggling with a layout that would allow an above floor shower outlet to connect to a door/corner soil pipe when I came across a toilet fitted with a corner cistern. Now I just have to re-locate the wiring for the shaver light without offending our electricians!

These are big ceramic tiles.

I took a photo of the pipe layout before screeding but doubt it is clear enough to risk full depth plugs. Now if only I had an infra red thermometer...

>

[Phil]

...or a water mist followed by freezer spray....

[Tim Watts]

I did and it worked.

• Clean the floor and bog base with solvent.

• Dry fit bog and draw a pencil line on floor around base

• Put a ring of good quality strong silicone down (eg glazing or builders silicone). This is why you drew a line.

• Add toothpicks, or frame packers to get a 2-3mm gap

• Drop bog on in correct position

• Undercut any extruded silicone with a screwdriver or pick about 2-3mm to leave a decent gap for finishing silicone.

• Leave as long a possible - 24h untouched. 48h better.

• Remove toothpicks and using sanitary silicone of the correct colour, go round the joint for a nice finish.

It may be "spongy" for upto a week. It will firm up. it is safe to use in the meantime.

Cheers

Tim

[Tim Watts]

This comes up about 2-3 times a year and each time, various folk say they did it x-years ago and it worked fine.

I could go wrong - but given the fact it's always in compression, it's really down to how well the surfaces are prepared.

[Tim Watts]

You were actually probably wise. I have the same sized tiles and went for a

4-5mm spacing and it's a bit too wide.

[The Natural Philosopher]

10 years daily use and still fine.

[Phil L]

Is the pipework metal or plastic? - if metal use a detector to trace it

Clear has a stronger bond, set it back from the edges so it doesn't squeeze out into view

If you intend using spacers, set them into the bead of silicone, and again, back from the visible edge

[Dave Liquorice]

It's not always in compression, the side that you don't lean to when arse wiping goes into tension. As you say surface preparation and a goodly area for the joint are probaby the secrets of success. Personally I don't like "glued" things, makes maintenance harder.

Removal of screwed down bog, undo screws, remove. Putting it back reposition, tighten screws.

Removal of glued down bog, find some means of slicing through thin but deep layer of sealant. Spend half a day removing/cleaning up sealant on floor and base of bog...

[Steve Firth]

If looking for a glue for this purpose I would use MS polymer sealant. I have a hand basin that is held onto the wall using MS polymer. The fixing is stronger than that obtained with screws and has withstood normal and abuse, including teenagers who think that hand basins are designed as impromptu ballet rails for exercises and also as seats.

I also have a couple of toilets and bidets secured to a tiled floor with the same sealant. For the same reason as the OP. instruction to plumber said no UFH under bathroom suite. He "forgot".

[Tim Watts]

Is that stuff any good as a sanitary *sealant*?

The silicone I put along the top of the basin has parted company with the tile grout lines and I fancy using something a little tougher.

Any gotchas with applying MS vs silicone?

[The Natural Philosopher]

try to undo screws,

Chew the heads off as corroded beyond the ability of any screwdriver to remove. Try impact driver. Smash bog. break up bog with hammer and remove. Screws still there. Angle grind down to floor level and swear to use silicone next time/.

In your dreams...

wire will do it - try a bottomm G guitar string

Spend half a day removing/cleaning up sealant on

Peel sealant off bog and floor

[The Medway Handyman]

Depends on the size of your arse as well:-)

[The Medway Handyman]

BTDTGTTS.