I might consider fabricating new "shelf Hanger" strips. U
I am suggesting you fabicate two NEW shelf hangar strips. I am not sure how to best (easiest) replicate that new Shelf hanger strips. Maybe 1/2 inch wide, soft aluminum. Cut the vertical "Shelf Hold" slots on a drill press, then true those slots with a Dremel tool. Hang the new strips, using the origianal door mounts, using threaded L Hooks. Use a few flat washers as a spacer, to provide a space for the shelve hooks to attach. The new strips, while hanging from the original slots, would have spacing to your liking.
Somewhere like Lakeland / Scotts of Stow often have expanding / stacking shelf inserts, usually suggested for use in kitchen cupboards to make better use of space, but they'd probably work ok in a fridge.
Well, it depends on the fridge. You would need to be mindful of the issue of damaging anything behind the side walls, and remember you do not want to compromise the insulation or let moisture into it. The different expansion parameters of the materials etc need to be thought out. but otherwise, I see no real issue. Not sure I'd rely on glue on its own though. Have you thought of using some kind of attachment on the shelf itself to lift the shelf? at least that would not damage the fridge, just the shelf. Brian
Things like self-adhesive towel hooks are surprisingly tenacious when applied to walls - maybe as a result of the sheer angle factor. Basically to fail they'd have to slide down parallel with the wall. They'd probably be even better on the smooth sides of a fridge Not sure if they make similar shelf brackets otherwise suitably butchered with a hacksaw, a few of these towel hooks might do the trick. Hold a dummy shelf in position in order to position them. They're also cheap enough to practice on first although in this instance I'd probably avoid cheapo pound shop ones.
Double sided tape.
You don't need high strength tape for this. As the sheer angle (if that's what its called) is at (0) degrees experiments will show you that its very difficult to dislodge anything held at this angle. See above.
This however is assuming that the sides of the fridge are perfectly flat, or that the brackets conform exactly to the sides of the fridge. Which being rigid they wont. Even flexible plastic angle can't be made to conform to a curve with buckling somewhere or other.
Drilling holes in the fridge.
Before attempting this, cut both of your arms off above the elbow so as to minimise irreparable damage to the fridge.
Other options.
Two 9mm ish clear perspex* panels cut to size, the depth of the fridge and around the height you want the extra shelf from the shelf below. Assuming 5.9mm glass, route two 6mm channels 6mm deep 2cm from the top of these panels which with the shelf fitted in the grooves rest on top of the moulded profile of the slot below, or failing that, the shelf itself. Providing the whole thing is a tight fit the panels will stay parallel to the sides without any need for fixing. However this again assumes the sides of the fridge are perfectly straight which may not necessarily be the case - hence the width thought necessary for mounting brackets etc.
Basically for things hanging from a hook all the force is downwards and parallel to the wall. So the whole of the self adhesive surface is taking the strain.
If somebody was "imaginative" enough to mount a single ended cantilever shelf bracket using this stuff then all the shear would be at the top of the self adhesive surface and the shelf would fall down before it was even loaded. With a totally rigid shelf supported at both ends, then as with the hook all the force would be downwards and parallel to the wall and the self adhesive surface.
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